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From Boulder, Colorado to the Big City!

Original Post
JR climber · · Boulder, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 0

I have been endlessly spoiled living in Boulder for the last 4 years - climbable rocks within 5 minutes of my doorstep, as well as a national park 10 minutes away (Eldorado)....

That said, I'm moving to New York City and am still a climbing addict!!

Where is the best climbing within a 2 hour radius around the city, and where are your favorite places to find partners?

Thanks in advance~
Joni

ClimbingOn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 0

1: Eldo is not a National Park.

2: There's a little obscure crag called the Gunks. You've probably never heard of it, as it's really just a local secret/chosspile.

3: In the words of someone from the far East, you not find partner, partner find you.

Richard C Sims · · Centennial · Joined May 2007 · Points: 10

Gunks
Not sure if it meets 2 hr limit? I was hitch hiking.
Found partners right away.

Insert name · · Harts Location · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 46

As proved by ClimbingOn we have a good sense of hospitality. That being said it carries over to climbing partners over this way as well.

-Gunks (obvious choice)
If you trad this is the spot, everything else near the city is chossy (Delaware Water Gap) or small.
-If you are into single pitch and boulder problems- check out the less popular areas. Bonticou, North West Crag, Tablerock, Triple Right.

-Suffern Powerlines, Transit Cliffs, Etc., Etc. (Closer to NYC)

Powerlinez info can be found on facebook if you look up Powerlinez climbing (Haven't been here yet, but it says the boulder problems are rated to gym standards not outdoor, I don't know about routes.

Transit Cliffs- Closed? At least thats what I am told. I have been there and am not telling you either way what to do.

Poison Ivy Wall (West Point)- Sport Climbing near a train. I hated it due to it appeared half the bolts were just placed and not used for routes so route finding on chossy sport climbs wasn't worth a third trip to me.

Harriman State Park- Bouldering, It's a hike and I am not giving directions since I would get you lost. If you boulder v7+ check out master bedroom.

New Jersey

DWG- Adventure climbing on loose rock. Worth a trip, Watch out for Poison Ivy.

Allamuchy- Little single pitch crag, worth a trip once or twice.

NYC

-Central Park Bouldering

- There is supposed to be some sport climbing in the city- Check NJ guidebook and there is a thing online if you look up NYC climbing on google.

- Don't Climb Pallasides on either the NY or NJ side. It's tempting but my friend lost his rack over it.

Coppolo · · Denver, CO · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 10

This is all vey optimistic.
As a LONG time NYC resident now Denver transplant, I'd say......

You must have a car to make regular climbing a reasonable possibility.
The Gunks are great, but are (come on guys) the only show in town.
If you're used to a plethora of styles and geologic diversity , or like climbing cracks at all, you, like me, will grow bored pretty soon, yes, EVEN of the Gunks.

I'd become a gym rat, make occasional trips to the Gunks, and take up a "City Friendly" hobby like road biking (Central Park), coed sports, cynicism, or general malaise.

NickinCO · · colorado · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 155

Sorry for your loss!

I just did the opposite, Chicago to Boulder. Don't know if I could make the move you're doing. Good luck man!

Tom Fralich · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0

Suck it up and pay the $160/month or whatever it is now to join the Chelsea Piers gym. Most of my friends (and partners) in NYC were people I met there. There are lots of very good climbers who train there, and plenty of interesting people.

The Gunks is great. I lived in northern Manhattan and could make it there in 90 minutes.

The Dacks are only about 4.5 hours away, and the NH areas are doable for long weekends.

There are some other areas scattered around, as mentioned...Delaware Water Gap and Ragged Mountain in CT are worthwhile.

There is also Rumney, but you might as well keep driving to Conway or Cannon, in my opinion.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

Via con dios.

cms829 · · NJ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 90

im always looking for a partner and have a ride and rack. Ice, Rock, hiking, etc. I dont do much sport at all, nor bouldering. I live within sight distance of the city. I live in Woodland Park, NJ. About 15-20 minutes outside the city. I climb often. Shoot me an email if u want.

Chris

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608

Having a job that lets you free on mid-week days makes a big difference in enjoying the Gunks.

Having access to a car is key. Having a place in northern New Jersey within walking distance to a train station with good service into Manhattan reduces the cost and hassle of car access.
Also northern NJ is closer to the Gunks, closer to more after-work bouldering on a variety of rock types that lotsa people don't think exists around the city, closer by way of I-80 to the newly-revealed variety of rock in eastern PA in the new guidebook on PAclimbing.com. Also way more vertical feet of leadable indoor routes per dollar than NYC.

Another thing to consider is non-stop flights from EWR + JFK with access to dramatic mountain routes in the Dolomites and French Alps, also to lots of sunny white rock rising out of blue Mediterranean sea. For those who get really good at sleeping on airplanes, and get more than two weeks vacation.
After a couple of times of leaving work a little early on Friday for the airport, and arriving at the top of the telepherique in the heart of les Aiguilles de Chamonix before lunch, don't be surprised if the Front Range looks a little boring next time you fly into Denver.

Ken

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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