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Hangboards?

Original Post
scdance · · Provo, UT · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 0

I was just about to purchase my first hangboard and was just wondering what other people thought of their hangboards or just the different hangboards out there. I was deciding between either of these two:

blankslateclimbing.com/shop…

and

amazon.com/Metolius-Project…

Any suggestions on which to get or a different one? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

R. Moran · · Moab , UT · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 140

Spend the extra money and get the Metolius Simulator. More of a variety of holds will help you to get stronger and keep your interest longer. The Blank slate is an expensive gimmick. There is a guy who posted pics here recently of a hangboard he mounted to a door frame pull up bar set up. His rig looked the same as theirs but he did it for a fraction of the price. Search the forums section for Blankslate or hangboards/training. Hope this helps.

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061
R. Moran wrote:Spend the extra money and get the Metolius Simulator. More of a variety of holds will help you to get stronger and keep your interest longer.
As said, there are lots of hangboard discusssions here...search.

That said, I totally disagree with the quote above. In fact, I think the smaller/cheaper Metolius (Project or something?) is a better board than the Simulator. Simulator has lots of overly large holds on it that are more or less useless for training purposes. The smallest holds on the Project board are smaller than the smallest on the Siumulator as best as I could tell in a side by side comparison. In any case, neither of the Metolius resin boards would make my top 5, YMMV.

I just hung a new DRCC V512 board yesterday, haven't done a phase on it yet, but I like it so far, take a look at them.
R. Moran · · Moab , UT · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 140

Will That is a sweet board! I wouldn't mind trying it out myself! I have had my Metolius for a while now and its done me well. When I bought it there were only a few other boards out there. Nicros,Pusher,and this Metolius. I dont think they even made the smaller one then. Seams like they have come a long way since. That DRCC looks awesome,The dual texture has me curious. I've also been interested in the CryptoChild. The pinches seam rad on both! Thanks for the Beta maybe I'll freshen up my set up this X-mas.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

i don't think there is a perfect hangboard out there - yet at least. perhaps part of the problem is that the companies making hangboards have little experience really using them, and don't really understand what they are targeting. if you don't know where you want to go, you will never get there.

my first hangboard was a metolius board that was basically a more narrow, smaller version of the simulator. this was probably the perfect beginner board as it was simple, had a good diversity of holds, etc.

i recently bought an etch motherboard and have mixed feelings about it. there are several things i like about it, but there are also several things that i greatly dislike about it. i actually have re-mounted my original metolius on the backside of my structure so that i can still use it for the things that it does better than the etch.

for a beginning hangboard (for your first few years) the metolius simulator 3d would probably be a good board.

Mike Anderson · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2004 · Points: 3,265

There is no "best" board because the answer depends on personal factors, primarily your strengths, weaknesses, and the particulars of your goal routes (hold size, type, rock angle, texture, pitch length, etc).

First decide what you are training for, then your weapon of choice.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

that too.

scott e. tarrant · · Fort Collins · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 250

for my money, goals, etc. Atomik is without rival! ability to customize and have the board change over time to suit my current strengths, weaknesses, goals... i am about a million miles away from expert in the field (another reason i love these guys...they totally hooked me up with a "package" to suit my current needs...) and there are a load of great and informed discussions on here (MP) but my $0.02...

atomikclimbingholds.com/

scott

Javier L · · Asheville, NC · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 636

+1 for the DRCC V5.12.

I just put it up and think it looks and feels very good for what it's geared for (climbing V5 and 5.12). Unfortunately, I also haven't done any serious training on it.
They were also very easy to deal with and actually gave me a nicer (more expensive) color pattern just because it was what they already had on the mold (I'd purchased the cheaper gray version).

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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