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> Mother's Buttress
> Cave Buttress
The Main Vein
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 4
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Routes in Cave Buttress
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Cro-Magnons From Space T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Main Vein, The T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pleasure Pillar Arete (AKA Facial Pleasure) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pleasure Pillar, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Rowan's Arete S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Unaweeper, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Unknown 1 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown 2 S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown 3/ Unknown 3 Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Weeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Jesse Zacher |
| Page Views: | 1,111 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Jesse Zacher on Nov 18, 2011 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This climb follows a long, vertical vein of quartz for two long pitches. You end up on top of Rowan's Arete.
Pitch 1: (5.11) Leave everything bigger than a #0.75 with your partner, but bring a #4. Start on some blocky terrain and place a few pieces until you reach the first bolt which is about 30 feet up. From here, used mixed gear and bolts to get to the base of the 4' roof. The next 20 feet is the meat of the route, and how you do it will be height dependent. Move over the roof on the left hand side, traverse a few moves right with the vein clipping two more bolts until the grade eases up and you get to a nice bolted belay on a ledge. (120')
Pitch 2: (5.10+) Traverse slightly right and up aiming towards the bolts. Clip several bolts up fun climbing on great rock. This pitch is long, so bring lots of slings! Continue through some mixed terrain and slowly angle right to where there is one last bolt and an obvious hand crack begins to angle on the left. Follow the hand crack to a bolted anchor on-top of the ledge.(160')
If you still have juice, lower and take a lap on Rowan's Arete!
Pitch 1: (5.11) Leave everything bigger than a #0.75 with your partner, but bring a #4. Start on some blocky terrain and place a few pieces until you reach the first bolt which is about 30 feet up. From here, used mixed gear and bolts to get to the base of the 4' roof. The next 20 feet is the meat of the route, and how you do it will be height dependent. Move over the roof on the left hand side, traverse a few moves right with the vein clipping two more bolts until the grade eases up and you get to a nice bolted belay on a ledge. (120')
Pitch 2: (5.10+) Traverse slightly right and up aiming towards the bolts. Clip several bolts up fun climbing on great rock. This pitch is long, so bring lots of slings! Continue through some mixed terrain and slowly angle right to where there is one last bolt and an obvious hand crack begins to angle on the left. Follow the hand crack to a bolted anchor on-top of the ledge.(160')
If you still have juice, lower and take a lap on Rowan's Arete!
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