Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Brian Cabe & LeAnn Jones August 2011
Page Views: 767 total · 5/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Nov 14, 2011
Admins: GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn

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Warning Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

An open chimney leads to a steep face with just enough features and protection to keep it from being too spicy.

Climb up the open slot, chimney up and step left working the nice handholds. Follow weaknesses and protection options slanting slightly left until possible to go straight up to short roof (horizontal crack for gear). Pull roof, and, build belay anchor on top.

Location Suggest change

In the middle of the East Face of BFD Rock is a large, open chimney. This route climbs the face just left of the chimney/wide groove.

Take two ropes and simul rappel to get off?

Possible to rappel from the anchor on "the Smell" but take care as its very steep, exposed and the anchor is a dubious, old ('87 vintage) washer stack).

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack. Stoppers and small cams (double set of 00 - 2 TCU's or equivalent) useful.

No fixed gear or anchor.

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