Dubious Flirtations
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
FA: | Larry DeAngelo, Anthony Anagnostou & Karsten Duncan -April 2006 |
Page Views: | 2,479 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Karsten Duncan on Apr 21, 2006 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Dubious Flirtations has a nice variation of climbing, some spice, and a touch of adventure. It is located the left side of the Solar Wall, in a small alcove just to the left of the Sunburn Buttress. In the alcove, there is a small varnished face split by a razor thin crack rising from the right side of a very clean, rectangular ceiling. The route starts in the corner leading up to this crack.
Move up to a short but wide left-facing corner on face holds and blocks. Continue up the wide corner (number 4 camalot) through the small roof and onto the fingercrack spitting the face. Climb the fingercrack until it seals up. Move out right on face holds to a chimney system and stance. 5.10b/c Belay takes 1"-3"
At this point, you can move right and up (careful for loose rock!) to a rappel from a pine tree next to the second belay on Sunburn Buttress, or continue upward on that route.
Move up to a short but wide left-facing corner on face holds and blocks. Continue up the wide corner (number 4 camalot) through the small roof and onto the fingercrack spitting the face. Climb the fingercrack until it seals up. Move out right on face holds to a chimney system and stance. 5.10b/c Belay takes 1"-3"
At this point, you can move right and up (careful for loose rock!) to a rappel from a pine tree next to the second belay on Sunburn Buttress, or continue upward on that route.
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