Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Dave Wonderly & Jack Marshall, December 1986
Page Views: 2,854 total · 11/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 11, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

This climb ascends the most obvious pocketed face on the Dairy Queen wall that is not interrupted by cracks. Climb the center of the face as pictured below. A hard crux starts the route (which felt harder than 5.9 to me) but could be avoided if you step right to start and then left after 2-3 meters of climbing. The beginning is big balance moves to a sloper and the rest is running up jugs on reasonably secure holds to the bolt anchor up top.

This route was reminiscent of Southeastern sandstone and seemed out of character for the area in general. It could be a pleasant change of pace for those wanting a break from J-tree edging and smearing.

To descend, rap off on a single rope to the ground.

Protection Suggest change

Not much pro - it seemed that it was mostly consisting of slung chickenheads. If this is disconcerting, consider a top-rope. Most of the moves are secure enough to do on runout, but some are reachy and may present more difficulty for shorter climbers. Bolted anchor.

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