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Routes in Helen's Dome
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Arete Already S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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AWOL (aka Moss Toss) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Beam Me Up, Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Borderline Boulevard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Brave Cowboy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Buffalo Soldier T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Buffalo Tears T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Burning Love Letters S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Electric Koolaid Acid Test T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Face Value T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fire Escape T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Fool's Gold T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fractured Fairytales S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gettin' the Groove S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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On the Bus T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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One of Ours S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Pebble Beach T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Rode Hard and Put Up Wet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Roototop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Scatterbrain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Slipaway S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Small Change T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Smoke Screen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spree T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sticks 'n' Stones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Voodoo Ranger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | David Kozak and Lynda Pritchett, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 941 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | slim on Sep 30, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This is a good route, it is probably seldom done.
This route is located far on the south side of Helen's Dome. Take the typical approach up the right side of the west face. This route isn't grouped with the "Fool's Gold" area routes. It is on a wall that is further to the right (south), past several huge, right-facing dihedrals. Keep heading right as the rock forces you. You will come to a nice, west-facing wall with a massive flake on the right hand side. The left hand side of this wall has a nice boulder/ledge with a fair-sized tree on it. If you look at the face behind and to the fight of the tree, you will notice that it doesn't have the same homogenous texture that most of Helen's Dome has. This section of rock seems slightly more metamorphosed.
Brave Cowboy starts from the ledge, just slightly left of the tree. Climb straight up a gorgeous jet black water streak to a high first bolt. Continue straight up to another bolt with fairly consistent climbing. This is kind of runout, so be sure that your belayer is ready to keep you from cratering. After this, the climbing eases up and the rock allows natural protection. Follow the crack system up into a very nice, easy, right-facing flake to a comfortable ledge with bolts on the right side. Double rope rap to bottom, or continue up easy unknown pitch above (5.6?).
The first section of this climb is excellent face climbing. It probably doesn't get much traffic.
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