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Rock Climbing Photo: The bolt protecting the offwidth on P2.  Photo sho...
Id# 107345403, 2000 x 1500px View full size
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By Tyson S Arp
Oct 28, 2011
I think you need some air quotes around "protecting".
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Oct 28, 2011
If you tell yourself "the bolt will catch me", you are putting yourself at great risk of falling to a ledge, hitting your belayer and breaking her arm, falling off her and factor 1.5ing the anchor and leaving a bloody mess dripping down the first pitch and onto the party following you. You will then rap off, get your rope stuck, and walk painfully and dejectedly on the ankle that you realize is broken, to the parking area and then subjected to the crass old nurse with the thick glasses in the Moab Emergency Room (which is hard to find). Then you get billed and have to schedule that surgery on your ankle, which won't work.
Take a large cam and use it. Seriously, its not much to carry and its an almost necessary piece for tower climbing in the desert. No reason for you to NOT have it here except laziness and poverty, and poverty doesn't really count in this situ (try paying off the emergency room visit instead? Me thinks not.).

As an addition, again, there is no plan to replace this bolt and there shouldn't be. The first ascentionist, Dan Burgeutte, did the route without the bolt and has asked that it not be replaced. As there is protection that protects the move (you are even toproping with the piece!) it would be silly and against the generally accepted ethics of climbers to replace the bolt. Carry the #5.
By Ben Kiessel
Oct 29, 2011
Well said Sam.
By Devin Fin
Jun 15, 2012
Sam is right on ! one look at this pice of shit chunk of rusty crap gave me the chills on a hot day... it must have some bad ju ju on it because wen i climbed past "the bolt" it looked at me an i swaer it turnd as i pasted it like some creepy doll head in some scary move.. willing me to touch it.. DONT do it that bolt is bad news....
By slim
Jun 15, 2012
probably one of the best decisions i ever made was loaning my #5 camalot to a cute girl for this route. we ended up getting married :)
Photo 26 of 64
Avg Score   3.5 from 2 votes
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The bolt protecting the offwidth on P2. Photo shot on 10/24/11.

Submitted By: Nathan Scherneck on Oct 26, 2011
On this route:
North Chimney (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a )
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