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Routes in The Dead Snag
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Ad Lib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Alor 1 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Call Me Slim T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dead Snag Direttissima T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Die Another Day T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Double Bock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Dihedrals T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Force of Nature T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Funk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Gypsy Girl S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Jig's Up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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North Dihedrals T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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R&B T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rock! T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Social Engineering T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Steorts' Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Tiger's Den T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Time Going By S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 380 ft (115 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Ted Wilson, Milt Hokanson 1961 |
| Page Views: | 12,552 total · 52/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Fisher on Jul 11, 2004 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
The beginning of the route is just left of the arete that borders the east and north face of the Dead Snag Arete. This is the same 1st pitch as Steort's Ridge. Climb the broken face and work the easy roof, then continue up the face to the ledges after about 120 feet. Skip the 1st ledge and hit the 2nd one which has a piton (It is bigger and easier to set up an anchor). Pitch 2 makes this climb as it works the finger/hand cracks that climb this face. The consistency of these cracks are incredible, and this is where the cams are nice to have. These cracks angle slightly leftward and are not the wide crack close to the arete. After about 180 feet of jamming, one gains a ledge within sight of the top. This ledge is small, but will suffice for a belay station, and it protects well. Sit down, take off your shoes and belay your second. Enjoy the view when he/she gets there.Finally, put on your shoes and work left off the ledge, along an easy section, avoiding the left-facing corner. This 20 foot finish ends the climb with 1 or 2 moves worthy of your rope.Walk to the south, where you can reach the anchors from East Dihedrals and do 3 1-rope rappels.
Again, I can not express the importance of placing your SLCD's carefully as there are 5 lost on this route.
Again, I can not express the importance of placing your SLCD's carefully as there are 5 lost on this route.
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