I'm looking for suggestions for intro to 5.12 routes in Rifle, ideally short 5.12 a or b routes with short crux and good clipping positions. Any suggestions?
Rukus is super short but in those few feet there is quite a bit of burl.
PTZ
·
Oct 4, 2011
·
Chicago/Colorado
· Joined Jul 2010
· Points: 490
Ricochet 11+/12A. Westchester wall Easy-Skankin 12 b. -one of Rifles best. Antiphil wall lost & found 12.b Meat wall Crime and Punishment .12a Meat wall Promise .12c. Ruckman cave Pistola .12a, Sno cone wall. There will be no chalk on this.Very overlooked and seldom done but still good. Defenseless Betty .12a project wall Good luck, these are my favorites of the grade that you seek.
Other good choices are Fossil Family and Pinch Fest.
dbyte
·
Oct 5, 2011
·
Carbondale, CO
· Joined Jul 2006
· Points: 485
All the routes mentioned above are quality, but I don't know if they meet your criteria of "short crux & good clipping positions". Here are some that may fit the bill:
Left El Sapper is only 2 hard moves after 5.10 climbing. It's also short. Fossil Family has its crux in the 1st 20 feet, after that it's 11b. Cardinal Sin, though longer & more technical, has decent rests right before & after its crux. It also isn't powerful but techy. Pinch Fest would be a good 1st 12b, as it's fairly short & the crux isn't long.
I will likely be there that weekend if the weather's decent, & I'll be falling off a 12a or b somewhere. Shoot me a text if you're interested in meeting up.
Thanks dbyte that is exactly what I'm looking for. The guidebook descriptions aren't specific enough. Unfortunately I've had a change of family plan so that weekend is out now.
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