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Rifle intro to 5.12 suggestions

Original Post
Greg Twombly · · Conifer, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 275

I'm looking for suggestions for intro to 5.12 routes in Rifle, ideally short 5.12 a or b routes with short crux and good clipping positions. Any suggestions?

richard magill · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 2,400

ruckus

Dave-o Friedman · · Fort Collins · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 5

I would highly recommend Crime and Punishment, Cardinal Sin, Genesis, or Defenseless Betty as a great first 12 at Rifle.

Greg Twombly · · Conifer, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 275

Thanks for the suggestions-I'm planning on the weekend of October 16th.

Keith H. North · · Englewood, CO · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 90

Rukus is super short but in those few feet there is quite a bit of burl.

PTZ · · Chicago/Colorado · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 490

Ricochet 11+/12A. Westchester wall
Easy-Skankin 12 b. -one of Rifles best. Antiphil wall
lost & found 12.b Meat wall
Crime and Punishment .12a Meat wall
Promise .12c. Ruckman cave
Pistola .12a, Sno cone wall. There will be no chalk on this.Very overlooked and seldom done but still good.
Defenseless Betty .12a project wall
Good luck, these are my favorites of the grade that you seek.

Jeremy K · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 0

Other good choices are Fossil Family and Pinch Fest.

dbyte · · Carbondale, CO · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 485

All the routes mentioned above are quality, but I don't know if they meet your criteria of "short crux & good clipping positions". Here are some that may fit the bill:

Left El Sapper is only 2 hard moves after 5.10 climbing. It's also short.
Fossil Family has its crux in the 1st 20 feet, after that it's 11b.
Cardinal Sin, though longer & more technical, has decent rests right before & after its crux. It also isn't powerful but techy.
Pinch Fest would be a good 1st 12b, as it's fairly short & the crux isn't long.

I will likely be there that weekend if the weather's decent, & I'll be falling off a 12a or b somewhere. Shoot me a text if you're interested in meeting up.

Jamie G-Child · · Bend, OR · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 370

crime and punishment (12a). it's 11/11+ to a 12- crux over a bulge. great stem rest right before the crux allows you to get it all back.

Greg Twombly · · Conifer, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 275

Thanks dbyte that is exactly what I'm looking for. The guidebook descriptions aren't specific enough. Unfortunately I've had a change of family plan so that weekend is out now.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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