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Panza Roja, AKA Atmospheric Disturbances
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 3.1 from 8
votes
Routes in Pillow Wall
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Chlorox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crack-a-Pogo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Davidson Dihedral T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Geekus Amongst Us T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ivory Snow T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Marilyn Chambers Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Panza Roja, AKA Atmospheric Disturbances T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Pillow Case T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pillow Fight T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pillow Stuffing T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pillow Talk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Short Sheeted T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Ivan Cross, Manny Rangel |
| Page Views: | 2,831 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Ivan Cross on Oct 3, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
This is an interesting engaging route, and unusual climbing for the Forks. It's almost entirely face with thin, but adequate protection. Manuel Rangel found, cleaned, TR'd and equipped this pitch. A safe lead would not of been possible without his efforts. Hats off to Manny for finding this quality route which had been overlooked for so long. The climbing is challenging and enjoyable. There are some loose flakes about 30 ft up, but it's easy at that point. The upper face is a little licheny but still climbs well. One should feel comfortable leading above small wireds and cams. Begin in a corner to a bulge (1st pin), face to flakes then a little to the right. Climb up along the arete (2nd pin) then face climb on the right side of the arete to the top.
Location
This route is all the way left of the Pillow Wall where the ground drops down and the cliff gets taller. It starts in an obtuse corner with an overhang 25 ft up. It can be recognized as a prominent pillar with a very flat top. There is a Ponderosa behind it which leans steeply away from the edge of the canyon.
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