New trad leader looking for suggestions

I just started leading trad routes. I led Lost in the Sun and Beginners Route. I would like challenge myself a bit more but, I don't want to rush it and get in over my head. Any suggested routes to throw on the list?

Sounds like you're into long routes.

Beyond Standard Route at Whitehorse, I'm not sure what else there is in NH for someone new.

In the Adirondacks, if you're willing to go that far, I can suggest Chapel Pond Slab as a nice new leader friendly spot. Go for the Standard Route which is well protected (generally). Beautiful route on beautiful rock in a beautiful setting. Can get very busy on weekends though.

While you're in Keene Valley, there are tons of nice climbs all around.

If you find yourself at Cathedral, you could lead Upper Refuse
Thin Air
Child's Play
Also, I've never been there but I've been told that Square Ledge is a good place for early trad leads

if you can go somewhere farther away, go to the Gunks

Square ledge has some good options.

When did you climb Lost in the Sun? Was it dry?

Lost in the Sun was the weekend before Irene. It was dry. I don't know what it's like at the moment. Moist at best, I'm guessing.

Maybe 5.7 would be stepping it up too much, but Whitney Gilman on Cannon is an awesome route.

Also at 5.7, the West Chimney on the Eaglet (opposite Cannon in Franconia Notch) is pretty cool... Only 200 ft of climbing, but it is one of the few "towers" you can do in the east.

Echo Crag (also in Franconia Notch) has some good, easy leads (short one pitch stuff though). It is a good place to try a grade and maybe try something harder without much of a commitment.

The good lines on Cathedral have already been mentioned (except Thin Air, which is a must do 5.6). Unfortunately, there are only a few other easy lines there... as someone else wrote, go to the Gunks... So many awesome routes there from 5.5-5.7 that it is a perfect place to learn... most of the routes there also protect very well.

Julius Beres wrote:Maybe 5.7 would be stepping it up too much, but Whitney Gilman on Cannon is an awesome route. Also at 5.7, the West Chimney on the Eaglet (opposite Cannon in Franconia Notch) is pretty cool... Only 200 ft of climbing, but it is one of the few "towers" you can do in the east. Echo Crag (also in Franconia Notch) has some good, easy leads (short one pitch stuff though). It is a good place to try a grade and maybe try something harder without much of a commitment. The good lines on Cathedral have already been mentioned (except Thin Air, which is a must do 5.6). Unfortunately, there are only a few other easy lines there... as someone else wrote, go to the Gunks... So many awesome routes there from 5.5-5.7 that it is a perfect place to learn... most of the routes there also protect very well.

W-G is definitely awesome, and definitely not a place for a beginner.

I've not climbed the Eaglet, but I would tend to worry about a lot of the same objective hazards as I would on W-G. The route itself may not be as long, but you could still get into a lot of trouble, it seems to me.

I definitely agree about Echo Crag. It's great, with plenty of lines at 5.6-5.8, many with bolted anchors. Stays wet though, something to bear in mind this time of year. There are a few lines on Artist's Bluff, across the road, that may also be suitable.

And the Gunks is worth a trip, even if it's not a place you can get to regularly.

I followed Whitney Gilman last weekend. I have to say I was glad I wasn't leading it. The route finding seemed tricky for the first pitch or two(after that the fixed gear was everywhere on the route). The falls weren't clean and the cruxes seeemed 5.8 to me.

Don MacKenzie wrote: I've not climbed the Eaglet, but I would tend to worry about a lot of the same objective hazards as I would on W-G. The route itself may not be as long, but you could still get into a lot of trouble, it seems to me.

Don, I'm sure you are very well meaning but you shouldn't be making comments on routes you've never climbed. It is not a service to anyone especially a new leader and could get them in trouble or keep them off a worthwhile route.

I've climbed the Eaglet a half-dozen times or so. There are no objective hazards (rocks) on the regular route (West Chimney) as on W-G. It is hard to get into trouble as you can rap from any of the three very short pitches and there is a bolt at the crux and bolted anchor at the top. And you can avoid the 5.7 start and keep it at 5.6 by scrambling up a gully to the left of the 5.7 start. The only thing that could be unnerving to a new leader is the exposure on top of the spire which is the size of small table. My son led the crux pitch of this route when he was 14.

Dr. Hemlock
An option that I have not seen posted would be to get on multi-pitch climbs that are 5.8 or 5.9 and under and swap leads with a more experienced leader where you have the opportunity to lead all the 5.6 and under pitches. One plus is that you will have more experiences on sections that you are not comfortable leading, evaluation of placements and someone to help finish the climb if you need to bail. I hope that you find this to be viable advice.
Cheers and Happy Climbing
David

In the 'Daks, I would look at Rogers Rock (Little Finger, trad 5.5-5.7 depending on the finish) or the Screaming Meany-Matrix link up (bolted 5.7).

Brian wrote: Don, I'm sure you are very well meaning but you shouldn't be making comments on routes you've never climbed. It is not a service to anyone especially a new leader and could get them in trouble or keep them off a worthwhile route. I've climbed the Eaglet a half-dozen times or so. There are no objective hazards (rocks) on the regular route (West Chimney) as on W-G. It is hard to get into trouble as you can rap from any of the three very short pitches and there is a bolt at the crux and bolted anchor at the top. And you can avoid the 5.7 start and keep it at 5.6 by scrambling up a gully to the left of the 5.7 start. The only thing that could be unnerving to a new leader is the exposure on top of the spire which is the size of small table. My son led the crux pitch of this route when he was 14.

Thanks for the respectful dissent.

I was thinking about weather, too, which is so fickle in the Notch, but you may be able to see it coming better when you're on on the East side.

In any case, the suggestion for the Eaglet had just come the same person that suggested W-G, and I don't think I was out of line by urging caution. I think that I caveated appropriately by noting up front that I'd not climbed it.

Everything people have said about the Dacks works. Also Owl's head had a few easy lines and good views.

Don't know NH trad.

If you get a chance, the Gunks is the best place in the world to learn to trad climb. Tons of easy routes that are still pretty fun, with lots of pro.