Trip to Thailand

So my wife and I are taking a trip out to Thailand to do some sweet activities. One of which is gonna be climbing. After looking at "Thailand, a Climbing Guide" and other guide books, it looks like deciding what to actually do is gonna be the hard part. So I'm looking to the knowledgeable people of Mountain Project for some advice.

Is it easier to find a gear shop and buy a new rope and draws which would then be donated to the community for anchor replacement, or to bring stuff from home? I've heard Thailand can be pretty hard on the soft goods. We’d be flying into Bangkok.

Have any advice on DWS? This is something I'll do on my own, so anything up to mid 12's works for me.

Any recommended spots to go craging with good Kayaking and snorkeling available near by? Or how about surfing? Or Mountain Biking?

Any must do mulit pitch climbs in the 9+/10 territory?

Any great hikes you’ve done?

We'll be there for 16 days, of which I hope to devote 3 to climbing on ropes, and 2 for DWS. The rest is for all the other sweet activities, so if you have any of those please share.

Thanks Guys.

Hey Brent,

Me and my lady went to Thailand last December and I can't wait to go back. First off, when are you guys planning on going? I'm pretty sure this is there rainy time of year right now and it would really limit the activities you can do.

As for is it easier to bring rope and draws, I brought my own and didn't think it was bad at all. If you are loaded with cash then f ya it would be "easier" and the locals would be stoked if you donate it for anchor replacement (God knows they need it and use a shit ton of fixed rope on approaches and anchors). I will say that climbing gear is more expensive there so keep that in mind. On a side note you will be stocked if all your gear is on your back for traveling (ie no bags with wheels).

I personally didn't go on any of the DWS trips they have there mostly because, to be honest, the water is pretty dirty and I constantly had open cuts (the humidity doesn't allow things to heal quickly). But don't worry, if you are only dedicating 3 days to climbing you will have too much to climb already.

For where to climb and stay, I stayed my entire 2 weeks in Tonsai. This is the most concentrated area for climbing and it would take a few years to climb it all. Tonsai is a backpackers camp and is primarily little huts, but Raleigh is next door if you want to blow cash and have AC.

From what I know multi pitch is not really what you go to Tonsai for. Ah Nong Tower is a beautiful 6c that is 3 pitches and kinda a must do, but the climbing is relatively unspectacular in my opinion.

I hiked enough on approaches every day to 'want' to do any more.

Feel free to PM me if you have other questions or if I can help out some more. Also Sam Lightyear (sp?) is also on here pretty actively and wrote one of the guidebooks if you need better beta or other questions I'd PM him.

Hey Brent,
I can't comment at all on whether to bring your own gear or not, but I can definitely comment on where to go. I spent two weeks in June climbing in Krabi and Chiang Mai and I can't recommend Chiang Mai enough. The weather is much cooler, the landscape is hilly and beautiful, there's a cool town nearby (Chiang Mai) with all kinds of other activities to engage in-- motorbiking around the countryside, visiting a tiger zoo, seeing all kinds of temples, trekking through forest, etc. As for Crazy Horse Buttress, the wall outside Chiang Mai, it's by far my favorite place to climb anywhere in the world. The routes go from super easy (5a?) up into the 8s for sure. The features are more interesting than at Krabi, owing in large part to the fact that they aren't eroded away as quickly by sea and salt. The routes are varied and the organization that bolted many of them, Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures and particularly its owner Josh, really put a lot of thought into how to make for fun and unique challenges. I know most people head to Krabi, and if you're a beach person it's probably a great call, but as a result it's also pretty crowded (and I was there in the low season!) and in all honesty I just thought Crazy Horse Buttress was heads and tails a more amazing place to climb.

-Zach

Hey all,
I'm heading to Thailand in November, and wondering about vaccines...
I'm getting a lot of mixed input on this, so I was hoping for a first person reply. I will be spending a few weeks over there & hitting the climbing areas in both the North, and the South. Of course, the guidebooks all say I should get vaccinated, but should I really be rushing out to get stabbed with a needle if I'm only going for a few weeks?

I was in Thailand all of December and January visiting my girlfriend. I did not want to go near Krabi, Railay or Tonsai but that is because I disdain crowds. However, if you're okay with the crowds and what not- go there. Great sport climbing to be had (or so I've heard). I would also recommend Chiang Mai. If I could live in one city in the world it would be Chiang Mai. The crag is most certainly less crowded (or so I've heard) and the routes vary from easy to quite difficult. The only multi-pitching we did there was only up to 2 pitches but apparently there are longer routes to be done up to the summit of Crazy Horse. "Into the Sun" was great and at 5.10b felt pretty easy for the grade- but nonetheless is a great route with great exposure. It's also easy to get to on your own- we rented a motorbike for the few days we were there and that took us roughly an hour to get to the crag. The sunsets driving back to Chiang Mai are brilliant.

As far as vaccines go... I did not get any shots and had no problems what so ever. I didn't drink tap water that's for sure. Naturally, your stomach will feel queasy for the first few days as you adjust to the food but that's to be expected.

bring stuff with you. There isn't much to choose from, if anything and it's expensive there. bring a rope that's had some love in it's day and plan to leave it for the locals, it will be put to good use and be used as protection (there area lot of threads, rather than bolts in the area).
Tonsai is the shit, you will love it.

Get the recommended vaccines! Two weeks is plenty of time to catch dengue fever, malaria, or whatever they recommend you protect against, especially if you'll be hanging out in the outdoors climbing a lot.

PM me if you want more beta on Thailand or SE Asia in general. Lucky you! wish i was planning a trip back down there right now. this no-window office will have to suffice for now.

Spent about a month last October traveling throughout the country. If you make a stop on the Phi Phi islands (Koh Phi Don) you will not be upset. There is even a shop there that rents draws and a rope (cring a little bit... but after a thorough check it was fine). Beautiful tropical island with snorkeling, cliff jumping, and monkey beach (has climbing, bolted).

Higher a local longboat to take you out to some snorkeling spots! Cheaper than the tourist power boats and more authentic! There is some solid multipitch sport and a crag right next to the beach (Ton Sai Tower). It is absolutely beautiful and can be quite romantic if you are there with your girl.

Who wouldn't enjoy a Tiger (beer) and some egg rolls with a bikini babe watching the sunset on the beach after a day of climbing?

100% Tonsai and Railei Beach.
I guided all over Thailand for 2 seasons and this is by far the most beautiful and best climbing in the area. Go to On the Rocks, Rock Bar, and Hot Rock (i think is the name). They all work together and share ropes and equipment so doesn't matter which, but it is the best beach in the area. as of a few years ago it was not too touristy/populated yet, nowhere near Koh Samui status. We also did stuff in the north... If you are looking for an overall itinerary of activities I can send you the same email i send to my friends with places to go/things to do. all of my tours were 2 weeks long.

Do I want to bring one 70m rope or one 60m?

I will be climbing in Tonsai the second half of January. Do I need to prebook accomadations? Can I find a cheap place to stay once I'm there? What about camping. Thanks!

Anybody in Thailand right now climbing affected by the floods? I've heard it's not too bad in the south, how about Chiang Mai?

Jordan Miller wrote:Anybody in Thailand right now climbing affected by the floods? I've heard it's not too bad in the south, how about Chiang Mai?

My girlfriend is over in Krabi right now (while I jockey a desk in the damp PNW). She wasn't even aware that there was widespread flooding going on up north until I asked how it would affect her.

Obviously this doesn't hit your question about Chiang Mai, but hopefully it helps with having the South as a climbable option.

Joshua MacCracken wrote:100% Tonsai and Railei Beach. I guided all over Thailand for 2 seasons and this is by far the most beautiful and best climbing in the area. Go to On the Rocks, Rock Bar, and Hot Rock (i think is the name). They all work together and share ropes and equipment so doesn't matter which, but it is the best beach in the area. as of a few years ago it was not too touristy/populated yet, nowhere near Koh Samui status. We also did stuff in the north... If you are looking for an overall itinerary of activities I can send you the same email i send to my friends with places to go/things to do. all of my tours were 2 weeks long.

I'd disagree with pretty much everything in this post. The guide shops, for the most part, do not work together at all. Maybe out on the rock... but they definitely have separate bank accounts and each puts in a certain amount of effort, or lack there of, to ensure that the climbing is safe. So it really does matter, to a great degree, who you choose to support.

Secondly, Tonsai and Railey are far from the best beaches around. They are actually pretty trashy and over developed, and a lot of the climbing is well polished compared to the newer stuff going up in other parts of the south.

Finally, it is as touristy as it gets. Sure it's not the same crowd as Samui, but it is definitely full of tourists and packed with climbers. The last year I lived in Thailand, if I went to Tonsai, it was to party and/or help rebolt. High season is a nightmare if you're trying to climb.