Accessory cord for anchor building?
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How long is your cord for anchor building ie. on multipitch trad routes and what diameter? I just realized the original cord I bought may have been too thin and so I bought 30ft of some beefier stuff, but wasn't sure if there is a rule of thumb. So what do you climb with? |
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21' of 7mm nylon cord. Climb on brah. |
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I recently converted to 5.5mm Titan cord myself and I love it. It's been a natural progression for me. I started on 7mm cord, then went to 6mm cord... |
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The cord I use for anchor building these days is generally between 9.2mm & 10.5 mm thick, and is either 60m or 70m long. Of course, much of that length is taken up by the pitch below. HTH. |
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Mike wrote:The cord I use for anchor building these days is generally between 9.2mm & 10.5 mm thick, and is either 60m or 70m long. Of course, much of that length is taken up by the pitch below. HTH. -MikeI´d climb with you. |
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chris did you find a partner for this weekend? |
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Jim Titt wrote: I´d climb with you.Thanks. I would be jazzed to climb with you sometime, primarily due to your knowledgeable contributions to several anchor threads. I would most certainly learn something. |
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Unless you're not swinging leads (which then, could be a pain), Use. Your. Rope. |
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Mike wrote:The cord I use for anchor building these days is generally between 9.2mm & 10.5 mm thick, and is either 60m or 70m long. Of course, much of that length is taken up by the pitch below. HTH. -MikeYou have a rope that changes diameter and length????!!!!! That's some seriously hi-tech stuff, brah. |
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Evan Sanders wrote: You have a rope that changes diameter and length????!!!!! That's some seriously hi-tech stuff, brah.Heh heh. I am trying to keep from making one of several sophomoric, sexually oriented jokes about that right now. In all seriousness, I hope it was obvious that I was referring to several different cords. |
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Why do these always turn into rope vs. cord threads. Each have their merits it all comes down to personal preference. I use 20ft 6mm. |
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I have a 10' and 12' rabbit runner, or I use the rope. |
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Mike wrote: Heh heh. I am trying to keep from making one of several sophomoric, sexually oriented jokes about that right now.LMAO. Oh, c'mon Mike. The rest of us went there; why wont you? ;-) |
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Bud Martin wrote:Why do these always turn into rope vs. cord threads. Each have their merits it all comes down to personal preference. I use 20ft 6mm.Because using a cordalette, in most multipitch situations is slow and uneccessary... Not to mention nerdy and unstylish... And that's just the way it is. As for me, when I do use a cordalette (most commonly in a party of three), it's 20ish' of 7mm. |
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SteveP wrote:chris did you find a partner for this weekend?Yup, climbing with a Japanese fellow in the Valley. Should be interesting. |
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BirminghamBen wrote: Because using a cordalette, in most multipitch situations is slow and uneccessary... Not to mention nerdy and unstylish... And that's just the way it is. As for me, when I do use a cordalette (most commonly in a party of three), it's 20ish' of 7mm.ahem ... when yr not swapping every lead ... its much easier not to use the rope IMO ... |
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BirminghamBen wrote:Not to mention nerdy and unstylish...Shoot, I think I have been climbing for the wrong reasons all along... |
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Using the rope for anchors is unimaginative, lame, and most importantly not going to get you chicks! :) |
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Mike wrote:In all seriousness, I hope it was obvious that I was referring to several different cords.What kinda n00b do you take me for? :) |
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I have completely ditched my cordalettes in favor of the 240cm Mammut runners (I think BD has them now too), which are hugely lighter and more compact: |
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Wehling wrote:Using the rope for anchors is unimaginative, lame, and most importantly not going to get you chicks! :) 15 ft of 6mm nylon is my choice.Cordollettes are also useful if for some reason the second needs to reconstruct an anchor or climb the rope. It also doesn't tie up a 10 feet of rope at each anchor (if you are creating a power point). Plus, if you aren't too smart, building the anchor post gear placement is identical every time so you don't have to think about it. |