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Accessory cord for anchor building?

Original Post
Chris I · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 90

How long is your cord for anchor building ie. on multipitch trad routes and what diameter? I just realized the original cord I bought may have been too thin and so I bought 30ft of some beefier stuff, but wasn't sure if there is a rule of thumb. So what do you climb with?

Andy Kowles · · Lyons, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 65

21' of 7mm nylon cord. Climb on brah.

Chance Copeland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 55

I recently converted to 5.5mm Titan cord myself and I love it. It's been a natural progression for me. I started on 7mm cord, then went to 6mm cord...

Andy's got it right -- somewhere around 20 feet seems to be the preferred length for cordelette.

Mike · · Phoenix · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,615

The cord I use for anchor building these days is generally between 9.2mm & 10.5 mm thick, and is either 60m or 70m long. Of course, much of that length is taken up by the pitch below. HTH.

-Mike

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
Mike wrote:The cord I use for anchor building these days is generally between 9.2mm & 10.5 mm thick, and is either 60m or 70m long. Of course, much of that length is taken up by the pitch below. HTH. -Mike
I´d climb with you.
SteveP · · front royal VA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 10

chris did you find a partner for this weekend?

Mike · · Phoenix · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,615
Jim Titt wrote: I´d climb with you.
Thanks. I would be jazzed to climb with you sometime, primarily due to your knowledgeable contributions to several anchor threads. I would most certainly learn something.
uglyhandmodel · · Olympia, WA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 0

Unless you're not swinging leads (which then, could be a pain), Use. Your. Rope.

Don't believe us anonymous poser climbers?

Consult Kelly Cordes:
kellycordes.wordpress.com/2…

Evan Sanders · · Westminster, CO · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 140
Mike wrote:The cord I use for anchor building these days is generally between 9.2mm & 10.5 mm thick, and is either 60m or 70m long. Of course, much of that length is taken up by the pitch below. HTH. -Mike
You have a rope that changes diameter and length????!!!!! That's some seriously hi-tech stuff, brah.
Mike · · Phoenix · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,615
Evan Sanders wrote: You have a rope that changes diameter and length????!!!!! That's some seriously hi-tech stuff, brah.
Heh heh. I am trying to keep from making one of several sophomoric, sexually oriented jokes about that right now.

In all seriousness, I hope it was obvious that I was referring to several different cords.
Bud Martin · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 380

Why do these always turn into rope vs. cord threads. Each have their merits it all comes down to personal preference. I use 20ft 6mm.

NickinCO · · colorado · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 155

I have a 10' and 12' rabbit runner, or I use the rope.

Brigette Beasley · · Monroe, WA · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 275
Mike wrote: Heh heh. I am trying to keep from making one of several sophomoric, sexually oriented jokes about that right now.
LMAO. Oh, c'mon Mike. The rest of us went there; why wont you? ;-)
BirminghamBen · · Birmingham, AL · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,620
Bud Martin wrote:Why do these always turn into rope vs. cord threads. Each have their merits it all comes down to personal preference. I use 20ft 6mm.
Because using a cordalette, in most multipitch situations is slow and uneccessary...
Not to mention nerdy and unstylish...
And that's just the way it is.

As for me, when I do use a cordalette (most commonly in a party of three), it's 20ish' of 7mm.
Chris I · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 90
SteveP wrote:chris did you find a partner for this weekend?
Yup, climbing with a Japanese fellow in the Valley. Should be interesting.
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
BirminghamBen wrote: Because using a cordalette, in most multipitch situations is slow and uneccessary... Not to mention nerdy and unstylish... And that's just the way it is. As for me, when I do use a cordalette (most commonly in a party of three), it's 20ish' of 7mm.
ahem ... when yr not swapping every lead ... its much easier not to use the rope IMO ...
Bud Martin · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 380
BirminghamBen wrote:Not to mention nerdy and unstylish...
Shoot, I think I have been climbing for the wrong reasons all along...
Derek W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 20

Using the rope for anchors is unimaginative, lame, and most importantly not going to get you chicks! :)

15 ft of 6mm nylon is my choice.

Evan Sanders · · Westminster, CO · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 140
Mike wrote:In all seriousness, I hope it was obvious that I was referring to several different cords.
What kinda n00b do you take me for? :)
Auto-X Fil · · NEPA and Upper Jay, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 50

I have completely ditched my cordalettes in favor of the 240cm Mammut runners (I think BD has them now too), which are hugely lighter and more compact:

amazon.com/Mammut-Contact-S…

I usually bring at least one on a climb. I use the rope for anchors most of the time when swapping leads, but having one of these guys and a light locker on my harness often makes an awkward belay station work much better.

I also often climb in a part of three with one person doing all the leading. In that case, we always bring two of those long slings.

Copperhead · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0
Wehling wrote:Using the rope for anchors is unimaginative, lame, and most importantly not going to get you chicks! :) 15 ft of 6mm nylon is my choice.
Cordollettes are also useful if for some reason the second needs to reconstruct an anchor or climb the rope. It also doesn't tie up a 10 feet of rope at each anchor (if you are creating a power point).

Plus, if you aren't too smart, building the anchor post gear placement is identical every time so you don't have to think about it.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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