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Sportiva Exum Pros

Original Post
Kevin Landolt · · Fort Collins, Wyoming · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 585

Any clue as to why Sportiva is no longer producing the popular Exum Pro approach shoe? In my opinion it was the perfect cross between a trail runner and approach shoe, making a great speed scrambling shoe. They were also low-bulk when clipped to a harness.

Any insight as to whether they will be produced again in the near future? What's a similar product to consider in the mean time?

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

I just asked about that at the local gear shop earlier today after not having much luck with the heavier and narrower Boulder X's. I was told La Sportiva is working on a replacement. I tried the 5/10 Domes but ripped off a bunch of the lugs after only 2 alpine days. Also dropped off my trail runners at the Rubber Room to see if they could resole them with dot rubber.

Kevin Landolt · · Fort Collins, Wyoming · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 585

I hope it's true that Sportiva is working on a replacement, though I loved the old Exum Ridges just as much as the newer Exum Pros, makes me wonder why they need to replace them?

I've thought about pursuing a sticky resole for some Sportiva Fireblades - in my opinion a great trail runner, though a bit soft. Anyone have luck with resoling trail-runners with sticky rubber?

Paul N · · Golden, CO · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0

Try the Scarpa Epic

scarpa.com/scarpa/products/…

They're pretty much the same concept, and I've been very happy with them.

Will Copeland · · Driggs · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 25

I think the Exum is/was a shoe that was sponsored by Exum Mountain Guides. I know that they used to recommend that shoe. They get a different shoe every couple of years. At one point they had a pair of Nike shoes. I couldn't tell you why they don't produce it, but the approach/climb shoe market is only so big. Only so many people buy them, and even those who do may only buy one pair ever. I've only bought the 5.10 guide about three years back and I won't need to buy another approach shoe for at least another five years.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711

Have a pair of the Nike Exum's. Cindercone was the "normal" model I seem to recall. Have the Exum logo and say Exum in yellow stiching on the tongue. They climbed ok. Nike Teewinot II's climbed well too.

Had about 8 or 9 pairs of La Sportiva Exums. Bummed they don't produce that shoe anymore. Fit me well, and, I like 'em for long days. Ugh.

Chris Plesko · · Westminster, CO · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 485

My pair is beat and I can't find any more 45.5's. I might resole them but the shoe itself is pretty worn.

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,197

Argh...La Sportiva strikes again. First the Kaulkulators, then Synchros, Megas, and now the Exum Pros.....Although I could never get more than a year out of a pair I would wear the rubber off them. I hate having to find new alpine approach shoes, you never know if they are a match until you are way too far from civilization to consider taking them off.

Please La Sportiva....re-name and re-release....I will continue buying a pair tell I am in the grave or too old to get out of my rocker.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

When I heard they weren't going to be made anymore I bought 3 pair. Got 2 left shiny and new. Those shoes last. (Exum Ridges)

Phoffmann · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 345

I have a few pair left online. In order to not spam the site please PM and I will get you the info from my shop.
Thanks,
Phil

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

Finished product from the Rubber Room in Bishop. Just got them back today so they haven't had a test run.

resoled Montrail Hardrocks

--UPDATE 2 Oct 2011--
Took these out for the first time today on the NE Gully of Laurel. They were great on the slabs and held up well on the long scree ski descent.

Kevin Landolt · · Fort Collins, Wyoming · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 585

Nice! Please let us know how they do out on the trail/rock.

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

Will do.

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

I just spoke to a friend who was at the SLC outdoor retailer show. Sadly, the word from La Sportiva is that the Boulder X is their replacement shoe for the Exum Pro.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
fossana wrote:I just spoke to a friend who was at the SLC outdoor retailer show. Sadly, the word from La Sportiva is that the Boulder X is their replacement shoe for the Exum Pro.
I have the Boulder X and have had the exum. I like both, but I don't think you can replace the exum with the X. To me it's a totally different shoe.
fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318
Scott McMahon wrote: I have the Boulder X and have had the exum. I like both, but I don't think you can replace the exum with the X. To me it's a totally different shoe.
Completely agree. I can't wear the Boulder X's; they are too narrow and I can't see them being as comfortable as the Exum Pros for long approaches.
Kevin Landolt · · Fort Collins, Wyoming · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 585

Totally different shoe - one was a light, runnable and climbable sneaker, the other is some heavy hot wierd fitting piece of shit boot/shoe hybrid. I used the Exum Pros to combine a trail-run with my easy soloing circuit, something I just wouldn't want to do with those damn BoulderXs. I attempted to do my run/circuit with my Sportiva Fireblades the other day and had to change into a comfy pair of Mythos halfway up a route because they just were cutting it. The BoulderXs have served me well for long approaches with a heavy pack, and long alpine scrambles, but it's a completely different shoe.

Also - which shoe would you rather clip to your harness while climbing a route you'll be walking off? No question it would be the Exums.

jmeizis · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 230

Dammit Sportiva, what the hell. Why are pretty much all approach shoes made of leather. It's 90 freaking degrees outside. I want a breathable approach shoe not two sweatboxes for my feet. The Exum Pros were awesome. Now I've got these stupid Raptors. The things suck, not that they're marketed as an approach shoe but they just suck.

Ryan Malarky · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 110
fossana wrote:I just spoke to a friend who was at the SLC outdoor retailer show. Sadly, the word from La Sportiva is that the Boulder X is their replacement shoe for the Exum Pro.
-1

Should have bought up some clearance pairs when I had the chance.
Kevin Landolt · · Fort Collins, Wyoming · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 585

Glad to hear you're supporting the cause Ryan.

brenta · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 75

Another vote in support of the Exum Pro and of no confidence in the Boulder X, which looks like a minor tweak of the Cirque Pro--one of the worst shoes I ever bought from La Sportiva in over 25 years.

Interestingly, the Italian La Sportiva site still lists the Exum Pro...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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