Another speed buckle catastrophic failure
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jmeizis wrote:Quick simple solution to solve this problem that doesn't cost anything and backs up the apparently most common failure mode of autolocking buckles, something getting hung up on the buckle and pulls it open. Tie an overhand knot in the webbing behind the buckle.dammit, beat me to it. |
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Don MacKenzie wrote: I guess this is a useful tip for those who have a speed-buckle harness already and don't want to replace it immediately. But in general, wouldn't you just be better off buying a harness with traditional style buckles?Have you tried the new Arcteryx harnesses? |
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GMBurns wrote: Have you tried the new Arcteryx harnesses?I have not. Enlighten me. |
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GMBurns wrote: Have you tried the new Arcteryx harnesses?Say what you want about Dead birds, but they make a sweet buckle! Arcteryx speed buckle |
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Wendy Laakmann wrote:Where would we get one of those extra buckles? Hardware store?If you're referring to the photo I posted, I got mine at a hardware store, but they're also at most camping/outdoor/army surplus type places. I should mention that my harnesses have never failed, but it seemed like I was having to re-tighten the speed buckles fairly often, so I tried a remedy for that and it worked. I don't blame anyone for being unhappy with this equipment if it's not right (it costs good money), but I started climbing back when many of us made our own stuff- the worst climbing harness on the market today is probably better than the thing I made from old seat belts... |
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I have never been a fan of of the idea of speed buckles. I have yet to own a harness with them. |
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slim wrote:i think its pretty conceivable on a tyrol for the load to not be directed towards the leg loops. if the waist belt started slipping, his upper body would rotate downwards, which would keep pushing on the waist band until it stopped slipping, or in this case came undone.Disclaimer: this harness is safe for climbing, just not Tyroleans. Bwahaha, that's a good one. Screw speed buckles. |
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Chris Drover wrote: I'm good at my job, therefore I must be good at climbing = gumby reasoning.YES |
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I had a buckle failure today on my Beal Aero-Park II. It is less than a year old and the metal just snapped. The picture, "wee picture" you can see the piece completely fragmented and expanded, a little like biscuit. I also attached a picture of the buckle. Needless to say, I got quite nervous. I never heard of this type of failure and I wonder if this was a, "lemon" or if this is more wide spread. I have used Petzl in the past and now I am thinking on going back to that. |
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what were you doing when it failed? Did it fail under load? did you bump it? how have you been storing it? |
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Glad you are ok. Did you contact Beal? |
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definitely contact Beal if you haven't already. the image reminds me of the pics on this cascade climbers thread about a busted hanger at index. |
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yeah, that's what i was thinking. is it aluminum? |
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Terrifying and legitimate... |
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damn, i used to have a bunch of those omegas. pretty interesting that it fractured in 2 places. |
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How old is that harness? |
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WTB the new Metolius speed buckle harness! |
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I'm wearing two harnesses from now on!!! |
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JLP wrote:Have you been swimming in the ocean with that thing? Stored wet? The webbing looks discolored and the failure you describe suggests corrosion.This +1 That webbing looks beat to sh*t. I have harnesses that are 6 years old that look WAY better than that. Same for the buckle. That looks corrosion related. I thought of the index Kong aluminum hangers as well. |
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the metal shouldnt snap period |