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Another speed buckle catastrophic failure

GMBurns · · The Fucking Moon, man, the… · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 470
jmeizis wrote:Quick simple solution to solve this problem that doesn't cost anything and backs up the apparently most common failure mode of autolocking buckles, something getting hung up on the buckle and pulls it open. Tie an overhand knot in the webbing behind the buckle.
dammit, beat me to it.
GMBurns · · The Fucking Moon, man, the… · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 470
Don MacKenzie wrote: I guess this is a useful tip for those who have a speed-buckle harness already and don't want to replace it immediately. But in general, wouldn't you just be better off buying a harness with traditional style buckles?
Have you tried the new Arcteryx harnesses?
Don MacKenzie · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 25
GMBurns wrote: Have you tried the new Arcteryx harnesses?
I have not.

Enlighten me.
-sp · · East-Coast · Joined May 2007 · Points: 75
GMBurns wrote: Have you tried the new Arcteryx harnesses?
Say what you want about Dead birds, but they make a sweet buckle!

Arcteryx speed buckle
Peter Stokes · · Them Thar Hills · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 150
Wendy Laakmann wrote:Where would we get one of those extra buckles? Hardware store?
If you're referring to the photo I posted, I got mine at a hardware store, but they're also at most camping/outdoor/army surplus type places.

I should mention that my harnesses have never failed, but it seemed like I was having to re-tighten the speed buckles fairly often, so I tried a remedy for that and it worked. I don't blame anyone for being unhappy with this equipment if it's not right (it costs good money), but I started climbing back when many of us made our own stuff- the worst climbing harness on the market today is probably better than the thing I made from old seat belts...
Jeff Johnston · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 110

I have never been a fan of of the idea of speed buckles. I have yet to own a harness with them.

But my crampons do have speed buckles on them and after a few routes they do tend to loosen up and I have to keep retightning them through out the day. I have full ridged boots so I belive that boot flex is not the complete cause.
So...I have never seen full on speed buckle failure I have seen a slow loosening of the buckles. That is enough to keep me in traditional style buckles, one less thing I have to occupy my mind about I guess. Just my 2cents...

Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 347
slim wrote:i think its pretty conceivable on a tyrol for the load to not be directed towards the leg loops. if the waist belt started slipping, his upper body would rotate downwards, which would keep pushing on the waist band until it stopped slipping, or in this case came undone.
Disclaimer: this harness is safe for climbing, just not Tyroleans.

Bwahaha, that's a good one. Screw speed buckles.
SKI Ski · · Portlandia, OR · Joined May 2010 · Points: 15
Chris Drover wrote: I'm good at my job, therefore I must be good at climbing = gumby reasoning.
YES
Pierre Lenoci · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 10

I had a buckle failure today on my Beal Aero-Park II. It is less than a year old and the metal just snapped. The picture, "wee picture" you can see the piece completely fragmented and expanded, a little like biscuit. I also attached a picture of the buckle. Needless to say, I got quite nervous. I never heard of this type of failure and I wonder if this was a, "lemon" or if this is more wide spread. I have used Petzl in the past and now I am thinking on going back to that.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks

Pierre

Buckle

buckle biscuit

mongoose · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 0

what were you doing when it failed? Did it fail under load? did you bump it? how have you been storing it?

Im not doubting you. I just want more information.

rob rebel · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 5

Glad you are ok. Did you contact Beal?

berl · · Seattle · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 25

definitely contact Beal if you haven't already. the image reminds me of the pics on this cascade climbers thread about a busted hanger at index.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

yeah, that's what i was thinking. is it aluminum?

Boissal . · · Small Lake, UT · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 1,541

Terrifying and legitimate...
While we're on the "this reminds of train":
Broken fixed draw (biner)

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

damn, i used to have a bunch of those omegas. pretty interesting that it fractured in 2 places.

jmeizis · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 230

How old is that harness?

Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 347

WTB the new Metolius speed buckle harness!

JPVallone · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 195

I'm wearing two harnesses from now on!!!

That soloing video was awesome, I never saw that one, I'm gonna solo with a rope in front of me from now on too, It might of burned the guys hands, but also may of saved his life, That was epic.

mattm · · TX · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,885
JLP wrote:Have you been swimming in the ocean with that thing? Stored wet? The webbing looks discolored and the failure you describe suggests corrosion.
This +1

That webbing looks beat to sh*t. I have harnesses that are 6 years old that look WAY better than that.

Same for the buckle. That looks corrosion related. I thought of the index Kong aluminum hangers as well.
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

the metal shouldnt snap period

a person who climbs 5 days a week outside will wear out a harness faster than the weekend warrior

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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