Mountain Project Logo

Transfering from campusing to climbing...

Original Post
Kai Huang · · Aurora, CO · Joined May 2008 · Points: 105

So, I have been keeping up with my campus training for about 6-8 weeks one day per week. My physical is definite up from before, campusing-wise. I can pull/throw higher, lock-off higher, stronger contact strength, and even up the medium rungs from large rungs. However, I can't seem to transfer that to climbing.

What am I doing wrong? What exercises do you do to better transfer the strength from campusing to climbing?

Here is a brief list of my current campus routines. All exercises start with left hand, rest 30seconds, start with right hand, rest 2mins, repeat once, then the next exercise.

1. ladder - hit every 3rd rung (skip 2 rungs) to the top. No matching hands except the top.
2. ladder, decreasing counts - hit 4th rung (skip 3 rungs), hit 3rd rung (skip 2 rungs), hit 2nd rung (skip 1 rung), hit first rung (skip 0 rung). No matching hands except the top.
3. bump up - hit 4th rung, bump up 1 rung, drop down 2 rung, bump up 1 rung, repeat once (basically 2 to 4, bump to 4.5, drop to 3.5, bump to 4, and repeat.) Keep low hand low.
4. big up - hit 5th rung, match hand, hit the next 5th rung, match hand.
5. ladder up and down - hit every 2nd rung to the top, match hand, reverse down, go back up, and climb til you drop.

Tommey-James · · Boulder,Colorado · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 10

I would work out more then one day per week and do some core workouts. I have found that when I have a stronger core I am able to controll my body better and get less pumped in general as a resuly.

Kai Huang · · Aurora, CO · Joined May 2008 · Points: 105
Tommey-James wrote:I would work out more then one day per week and do some core workouts. I have found that when I have a stronger core I am able to controll my body better and get less pumped in general as a resuly.
yeah, i keep that up too.

monday - stretch 1hr
tuesday - run 30mins, climb 1.5-2hrs, and campus 30mins
wednesday - run 30mins, pushup, and core exercise
thursday - run 30mins, climb 2-2.5hrs, and core exercise
friday - stretch 1hr
saturday/sunday - climb when i can.
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280

Less campus, more beer; works for me.

Sam Benedict · · Denver, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 80

Ya, more than one day a week would be good. But keep in mind, there is more to climbing than one specific type of strength. Are you trying to breaking into 5.13 or like v7/8? If not I would ditch the idea of training altogether and just climb as hard as you can as much as you can. Being able to rock the shit of a bunch of wooden rungs will not make you a better climber – only climbing will do that. Also consider drinking more, experimenting with mid expanding drugs such as LSD or PCP. Start smoking if you don’t already. Finding a perfect cocktail of uppers, downers, stimulants, depressants, sensory enhancers and serotonin re-uptake inhibitors can be a really fun and truly rewarding process.

Climb on!!

Sam

Kai Huang · · Aurora, CO · Joined May 2008 · Points: 105
Sam Benedict wrote:Are you trying to breaking into 5.13 or like v7/8?
That's the my goal for sure...
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Training Forum
Post a Reply to "Transfering from campusing to climbing..."

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started