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Kai Huang
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Jul 20, 2011
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Aurora, CO
· Joined May 2008
· Points: 105
So, I have been keeping up with my campus training for about 6-8 weeks one day per week. My physical is definite up from before, campusing-wise. I can pull/throw higher, lock-off higher, stronger contact strength, and even up the medium rungs from large rungs. However, I can't seem to transfer that to climbing. What am I doing wrong? What exercises do you do to better transfer the strength from campusing to climbing? Here is a brief list of my current campus routines. All exercises start with left hand, rest 30seconds, start with right hand, rest 2mins, repeat once, then the next exercise. 1. ladder - hit every 3rd rung (skip 2 rungs) to the top. No matching hands except the top. 2. ladder, decreasing counts - hit 4th rung (skip 3 rungs), hit 3rd rung (skip 2 rungs), hit 2nd rung (skip 1 rung), hit first rung (skip 0 rung). No matching hands except the top. 3. bump up - hit 4th rung, bump up 1 rung, drop down 2 rung, bump up 1 rung, repeat once (basically 2 to 4, bump to 4.5, drop to 3.5, bump to 4, and repeat.) Keep low hand low. 4. big up - hit 5th rung, match hand, hit the next 5th rung, match hand. 5. ladder up and down - hit every 2nd rung to the top, match hand, reverse down, go back up, and climb til you drop.
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Tommey-James
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Jul 20, 2011
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Boulder,Colorado
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 10
I would work out more then one day per week and do some core workouts. I have found that when I have a stronger core I am able to controll my body better and get less pumped in general as a resuly.
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Kai Huang
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Jul 20, 2011
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Aurora, CO
· Joined May 2008
· Points: 105
Tommey-James wrote:I would work out more then one day per week and do some core workouts. I have found that when I have a stronger core I am able to controll my body better and get less pumped in general as a resuly. yeah, i keep that up too. monday - stretch 1hr tuesday - run 30mins, climb 1.5-2hrs, and campus 30mins wednesday - run 30mins, pushup, and core exercise thursday - run 30mins, climb 2-2.5hrs, and core exercise friday - stretch 1hr saturday/sunday - climb when i can.
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Woodchuck ATC
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Jul 20, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2007
· Points: 3,280
Less campus, more beer; works for me.
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Sam Benedict
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Jul 20, 2011
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Denver, CO
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 80
Ya, more than one day a week would be good. But keep in mind, there is more to climbing than one specific type of strength. Are you trying to breaking into 5.13 or like v7/8? If not I would ditch the idea of training altogether and just climb as hard as you can as much as you can. Being able to rock the shit of a bunch of wooden rungs will not make you a better climber only climbing will do that. Also consider drinking more, experimenting with mid expanding drugs such as LSD or PCP. Start smoking if you dont already. Finding a perfect cocktail of uppers, downers, stimulants, depressants, sensory enhancers and serotonin re-uptake inhibitors can be a really fun and truly rewarding process. Climb on!! Sam
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Kai Huang
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Jul 20, 2011
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Aurora, CO
· Joined May 2008
· Points: 105
Sam Benedict wrote:Are you trying to breaking into 5.13 or like v7/8? That's the my goal for sure...
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