Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Tai DeVore, Greg Smith, Jeremy Freeman et al.
Page Views: 2,409 total · 15/month
Shared By: fossana on Jul 17, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


8 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

P1 (10c, 18 bolts)
Starting to the right of the pillar climb up a seam passing a rap station just left of the route ~half way up the pitch (you'll use it on the descent). Note: This pitch has the crappiest rock on the route. If you can get through it you'll be rewarded with some fun pitches on better rock up top. The route is worth more stars as this pitch cleans up.

P2 (10a, 3 bolts, gear to #4 Camalot)
Head up a short but awkward grainy crack past 2 bolts to a black chimney. Follow easier ground up the right-most crack system on better rock.

P3 (8, 10 bolts, gear to #2 Camalot)
Clip a bolt and step right around the arete onto a varnished face. Head up the face to the bolted anchor (hanging belay) or build a more cushy on a shrubby ledge at the base of the 10b corner.

P4 (10b, gear to #4 Camalot)

Grunt up the left-facing corner. Belay from either the top of the corner or at the base of the next left-facing corner.

P5 (10b, 2 bolts, gear to #4)
Head up the left-facing corner clipping a bolt under the roof as you traverse to the anchor.

Location Suggest change

The route starts just uphill from the pillar that sits on the right half of Big Horn Wall and climbs a reddish wall continuing through a break in the prominent roof system. The route stays shady even in summer.

DESCENT
Rap the route with 6 35m raps.

Protection Suggest change

70m rope

Gear to #4 Camalot, extra #1-3s (nuts not necessary). Note: If you use the alternate belay for P3 you'll use up a #2. The next pitch is fairly sustained #2s and #3s so if you're not solid at that size consider triples.

Photos

loading