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Mill Creek Crag Rock Climbing
Routes in Mill Creek Crag
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Big Dreams S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bulge to Groove T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Corona Alley S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Deflator-Mouse T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dihedral T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Dirty Boulevard, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eye of the Tiger S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Face T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Face (left of Freeway) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Feline Antics S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Floating Air Biscuit, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Freeway T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Groper S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Honey Pot S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Joint Therapy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jug Haul S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lou Reed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Pit of Despair, The T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Quarantine-age Mutant COVID Crushers S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Remote (chance of) Learning S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Sacrum-blue S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Scantily Trad T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Slot Machine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Smokin' John (submitted as Roof Rack) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sweet Petite S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Turning Point S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
| Elevation: | 9,500 ft |
| GPS: |
39.7838, -105.6242 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 56,135 total · 359/month |
| Shared By: | Harald Harb on Jun 20, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This is a secluded area with few climbers. I have put up four routes. There are chains at the top. They are trad routes, running from 5.7 to 10a. They are an easy 60m rope length.
There are 4 main routes from left to right, in order, Freeway, then by the dihedral, Honey Pot, Jug Haul, and Roof Rack. There is a bolt on "Jug Haul" to protect the first placement. If you miss the placement (flaired crack), it's a groundfall, so the clip is for safe keeping.
Since 2011, 20 new routes have been added. Most recent in 2013 October, Deflator-Mouse, 5.11b.
Getting There
Drive west on I-70 to the Dumont exit (exit 235 off westbound I-70), about 2.5 miles. If you come from the west, you must use exit 234, Downieville. Take a right before the post office, Mill Creek Road. up about 2.5 miles. This has easy climbing for introducing new climbers to the sport. It is South-facing and warm on sunny days. Approach time to the base of the climbs is ~5 minutes and 10-15 minutes to the top for TR.
Per the approach/driving beta as described isn't the best. 2.5 miles from the post office will actually put you in a little lot where the road turns from pavement to dirt, and with private land up the dirt road. And this is well past the cragging....
More accurately, it's about 2 miles up the road from the post office, right uphill from a steep, narrow section of road where you can see a cliff on the left, across the creek. The Mill Creek Crag won't be that visible as you're driving up because, well, it's right above you -- like only 100 feet above and back a little from the road, up and right (to the east) across from this aforementioned crag.
Per Da Burger: there is no parking lot and you are not allowed to park on county maintained roads in Clear Creek County. This road is very tight and the locals have been submitting complaints to the county due to traffic issues and cars/firetrucks not being able to get through because of people parking on the road. Be sure to carpool as this crag has become very popular as we don't want access taken away.
Addendum: look for the National Forest signs on the right after a sharp right turn. The crag is 200 yards up from there, look high on the right side of the slope.
L->R:
A. Remote (chance of) Learning, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. Sacrum-blue, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
C. Corona Alley, 9, 1p, 65', bolts.
D1. The Dirty Boulevard, 8, 1p, 75', bolts.
D2. Dihedral, 8+ R, 1p, 60', gear or TR.
E. Face (left of Freeway), 9, 1p, TR.
F. Bulge to Groove, 10, 1p, TR.
G. Freeway, 8-10, 1-2p, 30'-60'?, gear or TR.
H. Face, 7, 1p, gear.
I. Deflator-Mouse, 11, 1p, 60', gear & bolts.
J. Big Dreams , 10, 1p, 50', bolts.
K. Slot Machine, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
L. Quarantine-age Mutant COVID Crushers, 10+, 1p, 60', bolts.
M. Feline Antics, 10+, 1p, 50', bolts.
N. The Floating Air Biscuit, 10-, 1p, 75', bolts.
O1. Joint Therapy, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.
O2. Groper, 10, 1p, 70', TR, now bolts.
P. Honey Pot, 9 or 10-, 1p, 70', gear or TR.
Q. Chimney, 5, 1p, 70', TR.
R. Jug Haul, 10, 1p, 50', bolt & gear or TR.
S. Smokin' John (submitted as Roof Rack), 9+, 1p, 60', gear or TR.
T. Scantily Trad, 12, 1p, 65', bolts & gear.
U. Lou Reed, 12 A0, 1p, 65',bolts & gear.
V. Eye of the Tiger, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
X. Sweet Petite, 12, 1p, 60', bolts.
Y. Turning Point, 11+, 1p, 70', bolts.
Z. The Pit of Despair, 9, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.
Caring for our crag
Let's, as climbers and stewards of our beloved environment, respect our land so we can all have a good experience here. People and climbers bring their dogs, the dogs run around, and many are uncontrolled. Also, we find dog and human poop near and even on the trails and at the base of the climbs. The crag is on National Forest land. Please "take out with you what you brought, clean up after your dog, clean up after yourself (including toilet paper), etc. Let's be people who are courteous to each other. In other words, "please leave as little trace of your presence as possible."
Classic Climbing Routes at Mill Creek Crag
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