REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: Whats with the first two very pointless bolts?!?  ...
Id# 107169164, 1125 x 1500px View full size
Comments on Photo Add Comment
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jun 11, 2011
The bolts protect easy ground that if you did slip or make a mistake causing you too fall would be very handy bolts to have clipped. If 5.7 is your limit you would be very thankful for those bolts!
By Michael Buchanan
Jun 18, 2011
Agree to disagree. Where I come from bolting extremely easy 4th class rock is considered bad ethics. Rumney is the first place i have climbed where retro-bolting once climbed trad routes (w/ the FAs consent of course) is considered normal fare. I think that this policy has opened up many climbs in Rumney that might not other wise have been climbed because it is dangerous, and I like it. I just dont see the sense in putting in 2 bolts on easier angled rock. There are hiking trails in National Parks (ie Yosemite, Zion) that feature ground just as steep w/ no protection.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jun 18, 2011
I'm pretty sure somebody put the lower bolts in later for going directly up to the climb. There used to actually be a fixed line, then later a wooden ladder thing off to the left to get people up to the actual climbing for the routes above as the easy slab was very mossy and often soaking. Keep in mind also, this spot can get very crowded and with lots of beginners, so a few extra bolts on what you would consider easy ground might not be as terrible as you are making out. I have never actually climbed Nuthatch since it was bolted, but I know when the routes to the left first went in, we scrambled up to the ledge, then used the (then) lowest bolts as a belay anchors.
Photo 9 of 11
Avg Score   0.0 from 0 votes
Your Score   

Whats with the first two very pointless bolts?!? 2nd useless bolt clipped then unclipped due to pointlessness....

Submitted By: Michael Buchanan on Jun 11, 2011
On this route:
The Nuthatch (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b )
 Printer View

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About