Gym climbing vs real climbing, why do I suck?

It seems like every time I go to the gym I feel like I climb worse and worse. For the record, I typically climb in the mid 11s to low 12s outdoors, almost always onsighting 11a, most styles.

I go to the gym and after leaving my hands hurt, I've dogged up a couple of mid 11s and couldn't force my way up some low 12s.

I just spent a week at the New, got back last Saturday night. While I was there I climbed a bunch of sport and gear routes, most in the 10-11+ range. Some I onsighted, some I fell on, but at no point during that week did I feel as pathetic as I do when I leave the gym, nor did my fingers scream at me like they're doing now.

Why is this? Why do I climb like shit in the gym and why does plastic hurt my fingers so bad?

Plastic doesn't just sand off skin, it feels like it shears it off your bones. Climbing in the gym is also entirely different. The holds aren't the same because you can't get the same friction on plastic, its a sad reality.

Also it's possible that outdoor climbing is just plain better than being in the gym, therefore more motivating. No wait...of course it's better.

It could be shitty setting that is sandbagged. Don't know, doubt I've ever been to the gym you are referring to.

As far as your hands hurting: new plastic holds tend to be pretty rough. So if the holds are fresh that's probably it. If the hold is designed poorly it could hurt your hands or even cause an injury.

Just look at the gym as a training ground. Don't worry about what rating the gym puts on the tape. Just as long as it's helping you get stronger and not injured. Try to stick to the rocks as much as you can.

On that note; it's time for me to leave work and head to the gym.

Who knows, there are a lot of factors. Maybe your gym is a completely different style from the routes you climb outside. Maybe you don't get the psyche up for indoor routes.

Just look at gym climbing as a fun way to train for the real deal. If certain routes or holds are screwing up your hands, I'd avoid them.

I first started climbing at a gym (bouldering) and about a year and a half ago started doing sport outside. I hadn't tried sport climbing in a gym until a few weeks ago and one thing I noticed was that the routes were set like long boulder problems, meaning there weren't really any rests or clipping stances. I could see that being a common theme for indoor sport, although like I said that was just one gym. Or maybe the places I climb just have lots of rests... lol, who knows, like a previous poster said, just think of it is a training ground and try to have as much fun as you can. Grades are always inconsistent, gym grades ridiculously so.

I'd say its a subliminal lack of "stoke". Have you ever looked up an "11" or "12" in the gym and thought to yourself, "What an inspiring climb!? I look forward to to experience of climbing this route." Nope. You approach it the same way anyone working on their fitness does: with the mindset that it's not going to be enjoyable (really) but it will make you stronger (probably). Gym routes are sloppy, greasy imitations of the real thing - and our minds know it. Plasturbating in the gym just isn't fun. And sweaty shirtless gym rats don't help the atmosphere either.

Unless you normally climb outside on steep pocketed power endurance routes on limestone, the plastic just doesn't climb like rock. Almost a different sport. Holds are generally much bigger, especially the feet. Things are made hard by placing them on steep terrain and/or far apart with little to no rests.

I've done a half dozen "heel to hand match, pull with heel to rock up to angled sidepull" in a single session inside, maybe once outdoors in 20 years. Done lots of "huck 4' for the jug" moves, whereas I'm very reluctant to try that (and never need to) on real routes. The low friction of plastic that is good for skin preservation is bad for simulating small footholds. So the stuff just isn't anything like actual rock climbing. But you can get strong on it (if you don't get injured), and that's the point really.

I consider gym climbing the same as bouldering: just training/staying in shape for when I can get some real outdoor climbing.

Sam
Consider yourself lucky;it would Really Suck to climb better in the gym...outside is where it matters. Real rock requires adaptability and decisiveness, as well as grit. (I won't say courage,sounds self serving-but climbing outside is scary a lot of the time;I'm sure you've noticed)With the crimp intensive nature of hard gym climbing,it's easy to overwork your fingers. And don't forget to use lotion on your hands-it won't make them too soft. Back when I was hydrophobic about my hands, they were always trashed-always hurt.Now I use a hand lotion, and my hands are bombproof.(knock wood)
Bottom Line? You'll never look back at some taped up gym route with a feeling of remembered glory; these other folks are totally right; the gym is for training so you can get the glory outside. And, if you keep at it, you'll get pretty solid in the gym as well.

Derek Schroeder wrote: And sweaty shirtless gym rats don't help the atmosphere either.

Why? Are you a homophobe? What is it with you guys that is such a problem with no shirt?

you guys must have not been to Rocktown in OKC. They have awesome routes that use the natural drilled pockets and other naturally occuring features in the concrete. On top they have multi-pitch routes in their gym. Thank goodness for old grain silos! The setters also understand clipping points and set on endurance instead of a 30ft boulder problem. However, as the OP has stated, I do love climbing outside more. Pulling on plastic holds in gyms does cause more small injuries.

what was this post about climbing in the gym being lame.

cool thats what i thought

Sam Stephens wrote:It seems like every time I go to the gym I feel like I climb worse and worse. For the record, I typically climb in the mid 11s to low 12s outdoors, almost always onsighting 11a, most styles. I go to the gym and after leaving my hands hurt, I've dogged up a couple of mid 11s and couldn't force my way up some low 12s. I just spent a week at the New, got back last Saturday night. While I was there I climbed a bunch of sport and gear routes, most in the 10-11+ range. Some I onsighted, some I fell on, but at no point during that week did I feel as pathetic as I do when I leave the gym, nor did my fingers scream at me like they're doing now. Why is this? Why do I climb like shit in the gym and why does plastic hurt my fingers so bad?

How tall are you?

I'm 6'5'' and I sometimes find in the gym,foot holds and hand holds(especially slopers) are too close together, so I end up exerting too much outward pressure on them, and I just flounder off. Outdoors there just tends to be more options for staying "spread out"

At least thats the excuse I use....

Sam Stephens wrote:Some I onsighted, some I fell on, but at no point during that week did I feel as pathetic as I do when I leave the gym, nor did my fingers scream at me like they're doing now. Why is this?

You need to stop focusing on numbers and start focusing on what is difficult for you. What number you climb at the New or the Red is really irrelevant compared to your gym (or Yosemite, or...). Think about it, if you struggle and dog your way up a some mid-11s outside, is your reaction to jump up a few letters to the low 12s?

Falling/dogging a route means it is hard for you. Focus on improvement and not grades and I think you will have a better time at the gym.

I have the same issue...

I always attributed it to lack of stoke and having to stop and clip every 4ft

Derek Schroeder wrote:I'd say its a subliminal lack of "stoke". Have you ever looked up an "11" or "12" in the gym and thought to yourself, "What an inspiring climb!? I look forward to to experience of climbing this route." Nope. You approach it the same way anyone working on their fitness does: with the mindset that it's not going to be enjoyable (really) but it will make you stronger (probably). Gym routes are sloppy, greasy imitations of the real thing - and our minds know it. Plasturbating in the gym just isn't fun. And sweaty shirtless gym rats don't help the atmosphere either.

It's a bit forced, but "plasturbating" isn't half bad....

I also agree with the "stoke" factor. Indoors, you're translating which holds are "on", half looking for holds while half scanning with your peripherals to see if that hottie you'd spied is checking your hero send out, and meanwhile wondering about the anachronistic douchiness of Limp Bizquick's "Nookie" song playing over the speakers. I would say that mediating all these factors often leaves you "climbing" rather than climbing, a sure way to drain stoke out of any activity. Then again, even though it's not the real thing, I'll take plasturbation over nothing, and it still beats the hell out of just cranking out of pullups or grinding out a hangboard routine.

Each type of climbing has inherent skills, and whatever you do most is what you're going to be best conditioned for. This is true whether it is crack vs. face climbing, bouldering vs. sport, or (more broadly) inside vs. outside. The holds are different, the moves are different, the thought process used during the climbing is different. Another point to take into consideration is that indoor ratings need to be taken with an even bigger grain of salt than outdoor ratings, since indoors the routes are usually tailored to best fit the rating that the gym needs, and this can be very inconsistent depending on the setter's ability and experience. Climbs outdoors have had years to let the community come to a consensus on what they believe the difficulty to be, and even that doesn't make it conclusive.

Long story short, don't read into ratings too much, and learn to love the challenge of the climb rather than feeding the achievement to your ego.