Mountain Project Logo

DIY Metolius Equalizer?

Original Post
D Dyreson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 15

I currently use a traditional cordelette for top roping but like the concept of the Metolius Equalizer because you would have less strands to tie into a power point.

My question is: would it be safe to use this concept with a 10' of cord with eyes on each end?

My only concern is when using three anchors, the anchors on the end will have all the weight on one piece of cord instead of balanced between two pieces of cord with the traditional cordelette. This probably isn't a huge deal while top roping because there will not be a huge shock to the system.

Has anybody used this for multi-pitch belay stations?

Thanks,
Devon

Phillip Tearse · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2008 · Points: 80

might look into the ACR method. Not quite the same thing, but damn close.

mountainproject.com/v/trad_…

cjdrover · · Watertown, MA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 355

I haven't used the Metolius one but I have used the Mountain Tools version, which is a spectra/nylon blend.

The tensile stregnth of the Metolius webbing on one strand is probably about 13 kN (1/2 inch webbing is usually 9, 1 inch usually 18, they use 3/4 inch). So if you use a cord of the same strength it should be fine - though keep in mind that your knots will reduce that strength a bit. 8 mm should work fine, but its awfully bulky. 5.5 mm aramid cord is even stronger, but I'm not a huge fan of the stuff.

Devin Krevetski · · Northfield, VT · Joined May 2008 · Points: 140

I prefer the Forest Mountaineering Rabbit Runner.

If you are really into analysing that kind of thing, buy John Long's (old) new Climbing Anchors Book.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "DIY Metolius Equalizer?"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.