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Dad & Daughter Visit Next Week

Original Post
Brian Martin · · Bozeman MT · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 0

I've read a bunch of info on climbs for heat and got some ideas, but would like some additional route advice if anyone would care to chime in here. Looks like the Vegas weather forecast for the 1st to the 6th is upper 80's. If so, thats pretty hot coming from Montana. Definitely a newb to trad with only a couple of 5.7 leads under my belt. Lead 5.8 sport, can second 5.9/some 10's. Lots of multi pitch ice under my belt so rope management not an issue. Nor would building effective anchors. Will have a 70m rope and a nice full rack from my son to use. Thought about first day clipping bolts to get comfortable, maybe do "Man's Best Friend" to work with daughter on multi pitch, but again some shade and protection would be good here too.

I'd really like to know of some decent 5.6 trad to begin with, then a few 5.7's that would offer some shade, be multi pitch but 3 to 4 or so, i.e. not crazy long day in the heat. They don't have to be the most popular routes either, just nice ones to spend the day learning with my daughter.

Guess I'm looking for a bit of an itinerary for 6 days at the Rocks. Coming in from Bozeman.
Thanks a bunch.

Brian Martin · · Bozeman MT · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 0

Great info, sounds like this will be enough for 4 to 5 days of climbing. If the weather mid 70's vs. 80's this should open up more sunny climbs for us. Either way this info is much appreciated. Thanks a bunch!!

Tom Fralich · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0

Note that Tunnel Vision and Group Therapy will be pretty scary if you only have a few 5.7 leads under your belt.

There is some easier single pitch trad at Willow Springs which should be shady in the afternoon.

Rising Moons in First Creek Canyon gets lots of stars, although I haven't done it. You could combine this with some routes in the Romper Room area too. I suspect these should all be shady in the afternoon.

Necromancer in Ice Box Canyon has some nice climbs. Fold Out is more like 5.7 than 5.8 IMO and there's another 5.7 called Hop Route. Both are good.

As for long, easy, shady multi-pitch...I can't think of any. Dark Shadows is probably the easiest completely shaded classic that I can think of.

All the easy classics (Cat in the Hat, Geronimo, Solar Slab, Birdland, Johnny Vegas, etc) get lots of sun, as other have said.

Having just climbed in RR the last few days, I think it's too hot to be in the sun all day. Mornings are still OK. The number of cars parked at Black Velvet indicates that others agree.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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