Blockhead
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 6 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Nathan Conroy, Vishal Patel, Josh Cook 2010 |
Page Views: | 795 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Josh Cook on Apr 21, 2011 |
Admins: | Eric Och |
Description
This route was established ground up in a day. It is still dirty, and is a good way to break into the adventure climbing style of Cochamó, as it is only six pitches.
P1: Climb the blocky dihedral until reaching a big ledge at about 65 meters. (5.8 65m)
P2: Climb over a roof with a wide crack to gain a big grassy ledge. Set up belay below the giant flake/roof. (5.8 50m)
P3: Climb right of the roof to gain a ledge then move left and climb up the blocks. Belay at tree beneath dual dihedrals. (5.8 60m)
*There is an obvious squeeze chimney here left of the roof that is still waiting an ascent. Be warned, tis hard!
P4: Climb into the dihedral on the left, moving into the dihedral on the right. Ascend until reaching ledges. (5.9 60m)
P5: Walk forth class ledge left until reaching a tricky downclimb and even trickier traverse. After the traverse move back up and right (watch rope drag) and belay at a ledge. (5.10d 55m)
P6: Continue up blocks until reaching a ledge that moves far right. Do a few crux moves to gain the top of the wall.
"EASY" 5TH CLASS CLIMBING TO THE SUMMIT
DESCENT: There are rappel stations that start from a tree where you top out and go down the route. The final rappel involves hiking down to a big slab, finding two nuts and tat below a boulder and rapping from there....so, bring extra bail nuts and your own tat because you might not find the anchors. Again, this is an adventure climb!
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