Most favorite beginner routes

For anybody in Western Colorado, favorite trad beginner lead: Beginner's Luck, Unaweep Canyon, 5.7, one solid crack for 80 feet. A joy to climb

Lauren Trojan wrote:Rick - I think the flatirons sound fantastic. If I could spend all day going up something just fun and easy that would be perfect. How much longer till it gets warm up that way?

It's warm starting now. The whether is good for climbing on the front range 8 months out of the year, the other 4 months are hit and miss. Outdoor climbing never shuts down here for more than 2 weeks at a time. A temperature you might consider cold in NC can be quite pleasant here, thinner air means drier and sun is filtered less making sunshine much stronger. The down side is that when the sun goes, the temps can plummet quick.

Your real challenge could be the bird closures depending on what you want to climb. The 3rd Flatiron is the crown jewel for beginner trad but is closed until August. Boulder county open space has a map. Seal Rock and the 1st are open year round. The first can look like a Christmas tree covered with climber ornaments, very crowded. No such problem on Seal Rock. The Fatiron is another. Open space has also gotten a lot more reasonable about the bird closures. When the birds leave, they are now lifting the closures. The flatirons are HUGE, you will find a lot more open than what I mentioned no matter when you come.

Lauren -- it sounds like you've got a realistic idea of both your trad limits and your climbing limits, which is good. The key thing is to not push both at the same time.

If a trip to the Gunks is feasible for you, that's a great training ground. As others have pointed out, Gunks grades tend to be sandbagged, but you can find loads of excellent leads in the 5.1-5.4 range that have plenty of gear and are lots of fun besides.

Lauren Trojan wrote:Trying to wait just a bit longer for Moores to warm up!

Stuff at Moore's tends to be a little stiff for the grade, but there's a number of routes there that you should be able to handle: Sentinel Buttress (5.5); Washboard (5.6); and Wailing Wall (5.6), among others.

Lauren Trojan wrote:Peter I followed Nutrasweet - was completely game until the top - was a weird jam, smeary feet? (to be fair with lots and lots of gear) I found Twall fairly intimidating for being a new trad/crack climber?

T-Wall is pretty limited in terms of "beginner" trad leads, but some good possibilities for you would include New Beginnings (5.5); Plastic Toys (5.7); and maybe Nappy (5.7).

Lauren Trojan wrote:kwyatt - I'm going to LG on the 9th to do the Nose - think its an all day adventure or will I have time to get other stuff in too?

If you start early and move fast, you'll have plenty of time for more climbing after doing the Nose. Are you going to be leading it? I wouldn't call the Nose a good beginner lead; I think you'd be wise to follow it the first time and get a little taste of the subleties of placing gear in eyebrows. If you are planning to lead some or all of it, it would be great for you to partner up with someone who's an experienced leader in case you feel the need to back off leading at any point in the climb.

Have fun!

JL

Hey Lauren,

I might be at the Glass on the 9th if you're interested in climbing some let me know.

Andrew

Lauren Trojan wrote:Ryan - thanks of thinking of routes in terms of women being smaller - being petite I find sometimes that makes things a bit different. Trying to wait just a bit longer for Moores to warm up!

SO jealous!

My first lead at Moore's was either "Easy Hard" or "Washboard." "Headjam" is also good. Shoot me an email if you'll be looking for a partner this summer. I'll be around for July. It can get hot but Moore's is still good, Ship Rock is good and places in the gorge can be cool enough.

If it helps, I live in Raleigh and just did my first 2 trad leads this weekend at Moore's wall. I led the second pitch of Sentinel Buttress (5.5), I think P1 is a (5.4) and I led Head Jam (5.6).

Had an epic experience... hope you have the same.

Hey Andrew - Change of plans - based on the stellar recommendations for Moores from Ryan and Fischer I'm headed that way this weekend! Hoping to do Sentinel, Washboard, Wailing Wall

JL - great advice! I have to admit I've been spoiled having really experienced trad leaders with me as I've gotten started. As I started drooling over gear a good friend told me that in the beginning I shouldn't be climbing with anyone who doesn't have a rack (especially not with anyone with a bright shiny new one). Its really nice to be able to call down to your belayer knowing they'll rescue the grand of gear you've left in the wall :)

If you all had to pick - would you say the Gunks or the Flatirons in May?

You should climb the Flatirons in May. However, it will have to be the 1st (or 2nd, 5th, anything but the 3rd). The real classic (in my opinion), the 3rd Flatiron, is closed from Feb 1st to July 31st due to Raptor nesting. You can still climb the 3rd Flatiron if you don't mind paying $1000 in fines and potential jail time.

I'd like to climb with some clouds in the sky so that the sun does bake me. Also in May, Boulder isn't like 80+ degF outside. If you like climbing in the heat, then try the Flatirons at a later time. Finally, Colorado totally beats New York for outdoor activities.

Ty Meadows wrote: No assumptions...the OP climbs multi-pitch 12a. 5.8 should not be a problem with a little placement instruction.

I agree and disagree with you. Depends on the individual. I know individuals who started to lead (on gear) at stiff 5.10 but I wouldn't recommend it. Some people my be able to progress safely rather quickly into the 5.8's/.9s and even .10's and other's never get it and I wouldn't recommend a 5.5 on gear. Personally, I don't like making recommendations for reasonable climbs for someone starting in out in trad unless I see how they climb, place gear and get an insight on their thought processes (hard enough in real life).For someone who is experienced is a different story. For good recommendations, ask experienced climbers around you who have seen you climb. When you go to a new area, be a bit conservative and see what the climbing is like .