Prussik vs Tibloc
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So maybe I'm missing something, but over in this thread, there is some discussion about having a prussik or tibloc for emergency rope ascension. I have used both and agree that a tibloc or any machined/mechanical ascender is easier and faster than friction hitches (esp on frozen ropes). But what I don't get is what the plan is if you get stuck hanging on doubled rap lines. If the terrain is low angle enough, you can unweight and yard slack into your rap device, but what about vertical or more type terrain? |
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Watch this |
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I know how to jumar, that video didn't address my question whatsoever. |
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wrap the prusik around both strands of rope. |
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+1 for Crag. If you should rap past a station: simply hitch the prussik to both ropes above the rap device, stay on repel, use a couple of chest length slings girth hitched to the prussik as (a) foot step(s), and stand on it(them). Draw in the slack from your repel device and rest on the device. Next move the prussik up the rope and like hauling the pig power step up and repeat. It is called "anti-repelling". |
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These responses aren't really addressing your question. I would say that there isn't any good way to ascend up a double line with one tibloc. |
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Jesus I can't believe how long it took for someone to actually answer your question. This place is turning into Rockclimbing.com! |
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For all of those crevasses they have in Thailand :) |
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I've had this happen to me. I put a tiblock on each strand and put a single foot loop on them. It was a short distance, so I didn't bother re-rigging my atc-guide in guide mode and making a self-haul system, I just pulled in the slack while standing up and held the brake strands while re-setting the tiblocs. I use an autoblock on rappel, so I reset that every few feet to back myself up. Alternatively, I could have tied off, taken off my autobloc and used it as a prussik and done the same thing. |
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Thanks Tim and Ryan. I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. I'm not bashing a tibloc by any means, I know they have their uses, but I was surprised at how many people carried one in their emergency gear. I have mine if I *plan* to ascend a rope, but that makes it non emergency gear. |
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Ryan Williams wrote:Jesus I can't believe how long it took for someone to actually answer your question. This place is turning into Rockclimbing.com!...2 posts is too many? Man, you're demanding. |
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Crag Dweller wrote:wrap the prusik around both strands of rope.In regards to your last post, I still don't get how you attempted to answer my question. I've never heard of wrapping a prussik around just one of the strands as a backup or for ascending. And how does wrapping one, single prussik around both strands = reascending with prussiks vs tibloc? I usually agree with you Crag, but I agree with Ryan, you didn't address nor answer my question. |
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As stated above, you gotta use a prussik on both strands to get up. If you're using a mechanical ascender like the Tibloc, then obviously you'd need two, and to clip both in to a single carabiner to evenly weight both ends of the rope that you're rappelling on. |
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I've fixed the rope before rappelling down to find the next anchor before. Not perfect as you have to suspect you might be too short, in the wrong place, etc. However, if that does happen and you just have a Tibloc, you have an easy way up. |
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Not sure what caused this thread to re-open after years of dormancy, but Pat - If you're gonna go through all that hassle, why do overhands on both sides? Do it only on one side (see simul-rapping thread for pics) then descend your single line, if all checks out OK, you just pull your rope (pull the other side) if not, go back up. |
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No idea why someone bumped it, but it's a good one to have around. |
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Ryan Williams wrote:I'm now wondering why I even have a tibloc at all?I always carry two of them, if I bring them at all. The marginal weight and bulk increase is negligible. |