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> Gate Buttress
> Five Fingers Area
Hornet's Rest
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.8 from 39
votes
Routes in Five Fingers Area
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Bitterfingers T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Chicken Chickenhead T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fat Man's Misery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Five Fingers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hornet's Rest T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Scumbag Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Tenderloin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Waltz, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Ted Wilson, Bob & Wilf Bruschke |
| Page Views: | 2,805 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Gram on Jun 15, 2005 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This climb starts from the anchors of Half-a-Finger. First do Half-a-Finger, or I think maybe this ledge is reachable from the top of the Five Fingers buttress (?).
The pitch climbs a short hand crack in a right facing dihedral to a huge ledge. Then a few delicate moves up a very thin finger crack/seam in a dihedral lead to a roof. Hand traverse right along the roof and then up a groove/crack to the anchors atop Satan's Corner.
One 60m rope can rap here down to a ledge at the start of Lisa's Shoulder.
The pitch climbs a short hand crack in a right facing dihedral to a huge ledge. Then a few delicate moves up a very thin finger crack/seam in a dihedral lead to a roof. Hand traverse right along the roof and then up a groove/crack to the anchors atop Satan's Corner.
One 60m rope can rap here down to a ledge at the start of Lisa's Shoulder.
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