Glacier Ropes?
|
I've done some research and it seems the preferred glacier rope is half (30m) of a half/double rope for roping a team together on glaciated terrain. Is this your preferred rope? |
|
You should find a book with a good explanation of how to rig for glacier travel, ie Freedom of the Hills or the Mountaineers series book on alpine climbing. The climbers at each end of the rope need to carry some of the rope in coils in order to facilitate a crevasse rescue. I'm not going to go into too much detail here, but in a team of 2 you should have just under 1/3 of the rope out between you, with each of you carrying a touch over 1/3 in coils over your shoulder. This means you're about 20 m apart with a 60 m rope. Half ropes work great, or whatever you need for the actual route if you are climbing. Remember, if you actually fall into a crevasse, it can be a substantial fall like a lead fall. My only fall into a crack was about 15 feet. Good luck. Make sure you know what you're doing if you get on a glacier with real danger. |
|
I have read the chapter in my FotH book a number of times. |
|
My panties aren't twisted, in fact I could care less what you do. From your 1st post, it didn't sound like you knew what a properly rigged system would look like. Just trying to help. 60m is great, half or single, I think dynamic is better. |
|
+1 for dynamic. |
|
bag wrote:My panties aren't twisted... Just trying to help...Sorry Bag, that wasn't directed at you. Just past experience has shown that the way I phrase things on here gets people all jacked up on telling me that I'm making poor decisions without knowing the whole situation. I appreciate the input. With the comments from both of you and Erik's phrase about "every possible advantage" was enough to convince me the weight is worth it or the dollar amount to buy a new/used rope is worth it. Thanks for your responses guys. |
|
There's also this: |
|
I've used the Rando in that capacity with success. |
|
You will want to stay away from anything static. It doesn't take much of a fall to generate lethal forces on a static line. These forces could make a typical anchor fail and you won't even be tied into an anchor. What I find that works the best in lieu of a 30m twin line is a 60m half rope. If you have a pack, you can butterfly the rope and store the excess in the pack. This is far less irritating next time you use your half rope, which gets twisted up when you coil the rope. Of course a 30m is best, but 60m lines have never caused me any frustrations for glacier travel. Hope this helps. |
|
jack s. wrote:You will want to stay away from anything static. It doesn't take much of a fall to generate lethal forces on a static line. These forces could make a typical anchor fail and you won't even be tied into an anchor. What I find that works the best in lieu of a 30m twin line is a 60m half rope. If you have a pack, you can butterfly the rope and store the excess in the pack. This is far less irritating next time you use your half rope, which gets twisted up when you coil the rope. Of course a 30m is best, but 60m lines have never caused me any frustrations for glacier travel. Hope this helps.In regards to a 60m vs a 30m. Do you have enough rope to use your tails as a rescue/haul line or do you carry a second rope for that? I've thought about the possibility of the Rando with that 80' section of procord as a haul line. However, I'm starting to lean towards just carrying a 60m since I already have it. Thanks for the input guys. |
|
Go with a 60. If it's only you two on a glacier, without other parties around to help, you'll want to carry >20m coiled at each end, so that you can drop that into a crevasse and it is long enough to reach your partner. Don't forget to account for the stretch, have enough to make a knot, etc... better to have too much than not enough... When it's just the two of us, we always tie ~15m apart on a half rope (8 to 8.5mm), dynamic of course. Have fun! |
|
OK, I'll open this can of worms... |
|
...go with 60m; you never know when you'll need that extra length. depends on what you're doing too, I guess. I got caught with a 30m once when I needed a 60m... I steer away from tying in to static, just my preference..good luck |
|
Veteran Denali and Alaska guide, instructor and all-around good, smart guy, Blaine Smith published an article some years back on the use of low-stretch rope in glacier travel. |
|
Todd R wrote:Veteran Denali and Alaska guide, instructor and all-around good, smart guy, Blaine Smith published an article some years back on the use of low-stretch rope in glacier travel. It's a fairly easy read and sheds some empirical light on the differences and considerations in rope selection. Here's Blaine Smith's paper on Using Low-stretch Ropes: Using Low-Stretch RopesThe link appears to be broken. |
|
I agree with Walt. A 60m rope adds more versatility/security. Low stretch ropes add more force to the anchor, especially when youre the anchor arresting the fall, and even more so if you have a chest harness on. Mountains like Denali and Mt. Rainier have well worn trails up the glaciers with a less chance of a crack fall. In my experience crack falls are very painful because of the force generated. |
|
Sorry, I'm a bit of a Luddite on sites like this... Here's the text of the link: |