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> Hungover Wall - Right…
Doug's Dilemma
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 1.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Hungover Wall - Right Side
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Boilermaker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Conscious Projection S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Doug's Dilemma S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Easy Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gravitational Humiliation S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jim Beam Arete S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Old Fashioned S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Particle Acceleration S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pressure Drop S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ripples in Time TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Segments in Space S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Straight, No Chaser T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Suspended Animation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Under Pressure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | (TR) Steve DiMarino, 1998 (?), FL: Brian Cullen, June 2002 |
| Page Views: | 1,460 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Mar 29, 2006 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Just right of Gravitational Humiliation and left of Boilermaker is this difficult route, with distinctive gold-colored hangers, that is one of only two 5.13 routes on the wall.
A bouldery start gains a high first bolt above which interesting and somewhat sustained climbing (5.11) past three more bolts reach the 5th and final bolt. Above, the difficulty increases significantly as you encounter the bouldery crux which guards the topout to the belay ledge.
Originally done in the 1980's as a 5.11 toprope problem that ended below the top at an apparently "blank" section of rock, this was later done on TR with all of the moves being done (5.13c ?) but not linked. Sometime later an unknown individual enhanced holds at the top making this just a bit easier; for the record the first lead was not done by the mystery chipper. Sadly, despite the difficulty of this route, this could have been a testpiece were it left unaltered.
A bouldery start gains a high first bolt above which interesting and somewhat sustained climbing (5.11) past three more bolts reach the 5th and final bolt. Above, the difficulty increases significantly as you encounter the bouldery crux which guards the topout to the belay ledge.
Originally done in the 1980's as a 5.11 toprope problem that ended below the top at an apparently "blank" section of rock, this was later done on TR with all of the moves being done (5.13c ?) but not linked. Sometime later an unknown individual enhanced holds at the top making this just a bit easier; for the record the first lead was not done by the mystery chipper. Sadly, despite the difficulty of this route, this could have been a testpiece were it left unaltered.
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