West Rock Ridge, Ct Climbing

Flipped through the Falcon Guide: Climbing in Ct and was interested in the West Rock Ridge climbing. The guide pretty much only tells you how to get there, not about routes or grades, since its more of an overview of the entire state. I was wondering if there is any info or guides that cover routes/grades found in that park? Did a quick search on here and google and came up with a Wiki page that covers the park and that climbing is allowed in the park on various websites.
Thanks

Alex

No info out there?

RockinOut wrote:No info out there?

I know of two leadable established lines with anchors and another slab with anchors that is a decent TR. I've been trying to find out info on the place myself, I know that the city parks dept used to have some sort of climbing/ rappelling program in the summers and I dont know where they would have done that since most of it is pretty chossy or way too hard for beginners. Some of it could be some good sport climbing with a little cleaning.

Yea I was thinking of taking a trip out there to scout it out. I was thinking of taking some friends out to climb but didnt want to be stuck with just hard or chossy routes

mobley wrote: I know of two leadable established lines with anchors and another slab with anchors that is a decent TR. I've been trying to find out info on the place myself, I know that the city parks dept used to have some sort of climbing/ rappelling program in the summers and I dont know where they would have done that since most of it is pretty chossy or way too hard for beginners. Some of it could be some good sport climbing with a little cleaning.

Regarding the 2 leadable routes, do you know what they are rated and where they are located on the cliff? I scouted the area last summer and found a bolted slab and then could see a set of anchors up and left of the bolt line. Is this one of the routes you are talking about? Thanks for any info.

Ben

skatebrider wrote: Regarding the 2 leadable routes, do you know what they are rated and where they are located on the cliff? I scouted the area last summer and found a bolted slab and then could see a set of anchors up and left of the bolt line. Is this one of the routes you are talking about? Thanks for any info. Ben

if the bolts you saw were above the baseball field it is an 11d or so. next to it to the left is a 10+ crack w/anchor

My friend knows the bolter of that arete climb and it goes at 5.12 something. In regards to the crack climb to the left of it, the crux is near the bottom and goes at mid-5.11 and then is fun 5.10 after that. ends at bolts. gear is dent but not great. If you are looking for someone to show you the lines, I can help you out. also there are a couple multiplitch routes there, including passage to india which is a 9 or .10.

Also should mention that if you are not a local to the area, it is not worth a trip. It would be much better investing your drive time checking out ragged, pinnacle, or some other Meriden area climbing.

Thanks for the info! I live near Bristol so Ragged and Pinacle are my usual haunts. A friend and I had looked at west rock as another option but most of those lines sound out of my league! Are these just the only developed lines or the only ones commonly climbed?

Thanks again

There are other established lines but the cliff is pretty chossy in some areas and it is not always clean. I know of some guy who collects information on the area, but the routes aren't common knowldge. In regards to if those are the lines that only get climbed often, the truth is that I don't think any of these lines get climbed frequently. If you really want a area other than ragged and pinnacle, go to East Peak for high quality climbs.

My sister lives about 5 minutes from there and I have walked to the top of the cliff once. It looks like I will probably bring my gear next time I visit! What is the access like at the base of the cliff? It looked to me like there was a lot of trucks/ machines etc parked below so I thought it might be private land?

^ that is the private part of the land in Woodbridge, you have to go south past dayton street pizza in New Haven to find the routes. Theyre right behind the baseball field. With that being said the Woodbridge section looks absolutely spectacular with a couple of good lines just waiting to be climbed

RockinOut wrote:Yea I was thinking of taking a trip out there to scout it out. I was thinking of taking some friends out to climb but didnt want to be stuck with just hard or chossy routes

I know how you feel. I hate a little adventure too.

If you are talking about the portion of West Rock in New Haven then Mobley knows all about that place and if he sees this he can tell you specifics of the routes. See: climbri.com/CT-Sport-Guide.htm

2 yr old thread resurrected... fyi