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Rock Climbing Photo: TR of Evanston TWNSP 5.10b variation.  Feb. 19th, ...
Id# 107046158, 1125 x 1500px View full size
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By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Mar 2, 2011
How is the pro on any of the Evanston Township routes (direct, 10b variation, etc.)? I've never really looked at that corner of Brinton's.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Mar 2, 2011
It's pretty good actually I think. Small cams and stoppers (smaller then finger size) up the first part off the ledges midway. You can place many a mid size cam in the crack to the left of the 5.11B start. If you were to practice it.. you could climb the 5.11B start and reach over and place cams in that crack but it would be a reach... no real gear right on the 5.11B start proper. Higher up you can place gear over in the upper Chicago cracks or be more disciplined and stay clear and left of any of the Chicago route and still be able to make decent placements.. cams and stoppers (varied sizes in both)..
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 26, 2011
So, I led the regular route. You can pretty much climb about 20 feet onto a nice platform, place a crappy brassie and then do some sidepulling and high stepping to achieve a decent rest, place more gear and then do some more of the same sidepulling and movement to the overhanging crack at top. My question is how does this feel so easy compared to other DL 10's?
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 26, 2011
I think your actually right and not off target. It feels noticably easier then other nearby 5.10s and I would venture to say even easier then Chicago itself. I guess it just depends on how late you pull out of the corner on the left and onto the route? Also I think the route at the 3/4 mark is supposed to climb quite left of the Chicago crack finish... the overhanging blockish thing left of the crack but I am not real sure about that... it doesn't say anything about this finish in the 3rd CGTDL... I got that from casual conversation from a long local over the years but can't remember who.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Apr 26, 2011
Cool. I really liked this line and from the bottom it's pretty aesthetic. I suppose climbing left of the overhanging crack finish wouldn't be that much harder... but I'm going back to it for another go to see if anything changes.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 26, 2011
I think that option left of the upper crack finish is just a bit harder and just a bit less protected then the proper Chicago crack finish up into the upper ledge and little final wall and corner. But it has big holds/sidepulls if I remember right. I like this climb alot as well... hence my tendency to go on and on about it here...
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TR of Evanston TWNSP 5.10b variation. Feb. 19th, 2011. Nice warm and sunny rock.... alot of the snow has burned off the East Bluff due to last weeks sunny warm days.

Submitted By: Burt Lindquist on Feb 21, 2011
On this route:
Evanston Township Direct (5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c )
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