Type: Sport, 45 ft (14 m)
FA: Matt Samet, Oct. 1990
Page Views: 3,159 total · 17/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Mar 15, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

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Description Suggest change

Progressively more difficult climbing through tthe first half broken up by jug pockets. Big moves to an OK rest then a final boulder problem to the anchors.

Start up a low angle slab to the left of the bolt line. Reach out and clip the first bolt then move up into some slots and a pinch on a block, clip bolt 2. Thin face climbing leads to the 3rd clip. Move up on some very small holds and very technical moves leads to a hard stand up and stab for the next good 2 finger pocket and the 4th clip, or an all out jump. Some big moves up on sidepulls and underclings takes one to the 5th clip and a rest. Move to the right with some big moves on positive holds and the 6th bolt. A final commiting big move takes one up to the anchors.

This seemed as hard as or harder than Sinister Dane 5.13b to me, so if Sinister Dane is 5.13b then so is this. Crux sequence might be V7 preceded with a bit of difficult climbing and followed by some big moves to a poor rest to some more difficult climbing.

Location Suggest change

Pretty much the center line of the sport climbs on the wall. Lots of chalk most of the time. Left of the project with the obvious glue.

Protection Suggest change

6 bolts and chain anchors.

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