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The Junk Ride
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Rough Canyon
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Bromance S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cousin It T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Dead President T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Eve of War T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Guantastic T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Junk Ride, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Lemon Squeezer T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Maximum Impaction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Rough Rider (thanks d-ron) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Solar Impact T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Tabeguache Tower T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b C0 R |
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Uncle Fester T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Waxing Gibbous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Jesse Zacher, James Stover, Rob Pizem |
| Page Views: | 1,031 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Jesse Zacher on Feb 8, 2011 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This nearly independent line offers plenty of adventure and some choss. All belays are on ledges. All belays are bolted. This is a route with a little bit of everything, but mostly the wide. A good time if you're into that sort of thing.
Pitch 1: Start up a dihedral that is thin and climb up to a large chossy ledge. Go up the perfect hand crack to below a roof. Traverse left and around the large roof, chimney up to where the large roof/block is broken, traverse right at the horizontal break. Do a mantle and continue traversing right until you reach a nice ledge with two bolts. ~110 feet.
Pitch 2: Climb up the obvious off hands to offwidth crack until it widens to a chimney. Keep thrutching until you reach a saddle where you can tunnel through the tower and climb the leaning pinnacle by stemming and chimneying. This gets you to a the shoulder and the anchor. Run out chimney climbing. ~160 feet.
Pitch 3: Traverse and clip one bolt, mantle to ledge and 4th class the traverse right and up to another saddle where the prominent summit begins and at a bolted anchor. 50 feet.
Pitch 4: This last pitch is the original summit pitch of the Tabeguache Tower route. Originally it had many empty holes that house shallow angles or beaks/peckers. With the go-ahead from the FA party, we replaced three of the six or so holes with bolts. This now goes free but can be aided as well with the use of the other holes. Stem up the saddle and lean across to clip the first bolt. Make an arete move to move up and reach the ledge, mantle, and surmount stacked choss. Clip another bolt and make a strenuous move on sandy slopers to the summit anchors. Clip in and make another move to reach the actual summit. ~60 feet.
Pitch 1: Start up a dihedral that is thin and climb up to a large chossy ledge. Go up the perfect hand crack to below a roof. Traverse left and around the large roof, chimney up to where the large roof/block is broken, traverse right at the horizontal break. Do a mantle and continue traversing right until you reach a nice ledge with two bolts. ~110 feet.
Pitch 2: Climb up the obvious off hands to offwidth crack until it widens to a chimney. Keep thrutching until you reach a saddle where you can tunnel through the tower and climb the leaning pinnacle by stemming and chimneying. This gets you to a the shoulder and the anchor. Run out chimney climbing. ~160 feet.
Pitch 3: Traverse and clip one bolt, mantle to ledge and 4th class the traverse right and up to another saddle where the prominent summit begins and at a bolted anchor. 50 feet.
Pitch 4: This last pitch is the original summit pitch of the Tabeguache Tower route. Originally it had many empty holes that house shallow angles or beaks/peckers. With the go-ahead from the FA party, we replaced three of the six or so holes with bolts. This now goes free but can be aided as well with the use of the other holes. Stem up the saddle and lean across to clip the first bolt. Make an arete move to move up and reach the ledge, mantle, and surmount stacked choss. Clip another bolt and make a strenuous move on sandy slopers to the summit anchors. Clip in and make another move to reach the actual summit. ~60 feet.
Location
The route is 10 yards up canyon, left of the Tabeguache Tower in the dihedral.
Rappel back to the saddle with a single rope. From here, rap down the backside of the tower in between the cliff face and the tower. Double rope rappel. Traverse the chossy ledge down canyon for about 50 yards. Rap bolts are placed on the wall for a single rope rap to the ground. They may be hard to spot. Look for the last rap anchors before starting up the tower as they can be seen easily from the ground.
The summit anchor and the double rope rap anchor has been beefed up with the addition of another bolt.
Rappel back to the saddle with a single rope. From here, rap down the backside of the tower in between the cliff face and the tower. Double rope rappel. Traverse the chossy ledge down canyon for about 50 yards. Rap bolts are placed on the wall for a single rope rap to the ground. They may be hard to spot. Look for the last rap anchors before starting up the tower as they can be seen easily from the ground.
The summit anchor and the double rope rap anchor has been beefed up with the addition of another bolt.
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