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Colorado Thief caught in the act at Smith

B Gilmore · · AZ · Joined Nov 2005 · Points: 1,260

This has to be a TROLL. You guys should win a Slashy for this. If it's not a troll, please stop calling him a Colorado climber... just 'cause a cat climbs in an oven to have her kittens doesn't make 'em biscuits!

Mike Anderson · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2004 · Points: 3,265

Question...do you guys believe in honoring local ethics?

Sam Feuerborn · · Carbondale · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 810
Mike Anderson wrote:Question...do you guys believe in honoring local ethics?
Better question: Can you define your local ethics?
Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203
Mike Anderson wrote:Question...do you guys believe in honoring local ethics?
"Ethics are like erections. No matter how well intentioned they might be they are prone to sudden deflation"

Dougal Haston
jeff walker · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 0
P LaDouche wrote: I'm sorry, does the word pinkpointer make you feel the need to call me an ass? I just say it as I see it Julian, pinkpointers/gym climbers seem to feel like they have some special power to call the shots at world class climbing areas and I think thats complete bullshit. 14a, 5.8+, it doesnt matter. The rules shouldnt change, clean your shit up or take the risk of it going home with someone else. Its just a few draws, if they are that important to you then take your draws home with you, its simple. It all boils down to lazy behavior really, how long would it take someone projecting a climb to actually hang the draws without getting too pumped on a climb above their actual onsite level so they could give it a few burns that day? an hour at most.
judging from your response it is clear that the answer to JukianM's question is no, you are not as big an ass in real life. you are actually an even bigger ass in real life than you are on the internet. i'll bet you are an even bigger ass than most of us can imagine.
Tim Pegg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 5
phillip wrote: Behold, the klepto-gumbie mind at work!
Thanks for addressing the point I was making. I'm glad that you can really engage in conversations which might be difficult for you and others who may hold different view points.
phillip Hranicka · · Bend, OR · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 135
Tim Pegg wrote: Thanks for addressing the point I was making. I'm glad that you can really engage in conversations which might be difficult for you and others who may hold different view points.
Please tell me the point of this:

Tim Pegg wrote:Sounds to me like the highpoint was the draw on the last bolt. If I booty that one, then come back the next day can I assume that the second-highest draw is also on the highpoint and booty that, too?


Do you really not know to leave a line of draws alone? That you talk of booty-ing draws shows that you are not concerned with the visual impacts and are, in fact, a thief.
P LaDouche · · CO · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 15
jeff walker wrote: judging from your response it is clear that the answer to JukianM's question is no, you are not as big an ass in real life. you are actually an even bigger ass in real life than you are on the internet. i'll bet you are an even bigger ass than most of us can imagine.
Hey, yet another name caller that cant argue any of the points I have made! I probably wouldnt even be posting on the thread if the guy confronting the elf hadnt made such a douchy comment about the grade of the climb. Plus I have spent many hours of my life hanging draws before sending and it hasnt killed me yet. Clipping worn out biners is another story all together.
taylorpur · · vancouver, bc · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 5

dont want to risk having your gear stolen, dont leave it unattended

red point is ground up placing all gear be it draws or what ever

having draws in place makes a climb faster and easier to send

if i left my mountain bike at a trail head with the intent to ride it the next day i wouldnt be suprised when i returned to find it gone.

look after your stuff if you want to keep it.

jeff walker · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 0
taylorpur wrote:dont want to risk having your gear stolen, dont leave it unattended red point is ground up placing all gear be it draws or what ever having draws in place makes a climb faster and easier to send if i left my mountain bike at a trail head with the intent to ride it the next day i wouldnt be suprised when i returned to find it gone. look after your stuff if you want to keep it.
interesting line of argument here. "if something of yours gets stolen it's your fault, you should have been more careful" -- this is the sort of rationale used by thieves to justify their actions. if this is the way you think, then you, too, are either a thief or potential thief since you believe it is the victim's fault that he got robbed.

the "keebler elf" character in this video wasn't making an ethical statement, he was stealing. when you say that if you left your mountain bike at a trailhead and came back to find it gone, and that this wouldn't surprise you, are you also saying that the thief's actions are justified and that if you caught him in the act you wouldn't try to stop him from taking your bike? after all, you are the moron who left there so by your own argument you deserve to lose it.

somehow i suspect you'd try to get your bike back.
P LaDouche · · CO · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 15
JLP wrote: Pinkpointer. I found your posts interesting until this thread.
Yes but not a lazy ass pinkpointer. Big difference.
Christopher M. · · Campton, NH · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 15
taylorpur wrote:dont want to risk having your gear stolen, dont leave it unattended red point is ground up placing all gear be it draws or what ever having draws in place makes a climb faster and easier to send if i left my mountain bike at a trail head with the intent to ride it the next day i wouldnt be suprised when i returned to find it gone. look after your stuff if you want to keep it.
What if you left your car at the trailhead overnight, would you expect it to be there the next day?
phillip Hranicka · · Bend, OR · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 135
taylorpur wrote:red point is ground up placing all gear be it draws or what ever
Quick draws don't work very well without bolts- do bolts and hangers have to be removed after each attempt and reinstalled on lead, as well?

taylorpur wrote:having draws in place makes a climb faster and easier to send
Now you're getting it! Welcome to sport climbing!
Matthew P · · Saint George, UT · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 10

Possibly related, between the 28th and 29th of December, the Virgin River Gorge had some draws stolen. The majority of them (8 or so) were taken from the first bolt of hung routes. A less-steep 13a (Space Race) had the entire route cleared. I assumed someone finished their project and cleaned it. After watching the vid here though, this route would be right up neck-beard's style and easier to clean than a lot of routes here. In addition, VRG would be right on this neck-beard's drive home if he went through vegas to utah.

edit: mistakenly said stolen bolts, but meant draws. Hilarity follows in next two posts.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

So quickdraw stealing is a sort of gateway drug to bolt stealing?

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
Stich wrote:So quickdraw stealing is a sort of gateway drug to bolt stealing?
Duh....how the heck can you hang your stolen draws without stolen bolts?? :o)
Mike Anderson · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2004 · Points: 3,265
Matthew P wrote:Possibly related, between the 28th and 29th of December, the Virgin River Gorge had some bolts stolen. The majority of them (8 or so) were taken from the first bolt of hung routes. A less-steep 13a (Space Race) had the entire route cleared. I assumed someone finished their project and cleaned it. After watching the vid here though, this route would be right up neck-beards style and easier to clean than a lot of routes here. In addition, VRG would be right on this neck-beards drive home if he went through vegas to utah.
That might be "Killis Howard" who lives in the Vegas area, he has been known to snag draws at the VRG.
EMT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 205

I think that local ethics are good for climbing really. I don't like seeing draws hanging for days on end, but in some areas it's the way it is. Sillly to over discuss the draw thing when it's the cliff base and cliff top veg. that is most obviously fucked up in some areas, and sometimes because of a lack of rap bolts

The thing that messes with my mind is how this guy could waste a day stealing draws at a place like smith, where the climbing in every grade is so good? I mean why would he not be climbing some of those fun routes? That's crazy.

Andrew Sharpe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 25
rockandice.com/component/co…

The video was posted on the Rock and Ice website.
Paul Tomlinson · · Bend · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0

After 8 pages of almost entirely cliche and predictable opinions, I remember why I don't frequent these sort of sites often. If it were not for the levity that the "Burbs" clip, "eat your beard" article, and a handful of other individual's clever witicisms provided, I would be hard pressed to say that this time spent was redeemable in any way.

Logically, you cannot argue that one should not leave his/her draws on the basis of fixed gear being an "eyesore", without concluding in addition that one should not leave bolts, hangers, chains, webbing, tat, rap rings, tents, cars, blah, blah... you get the picture. Therefore, if you are going to be a nazi about fixed draws, you better be consistent--your pack is mine if you leave the ground without it!

Pink-pointing/red-pointing/not-pointing--who cares! I have never met an admirable climber that got hung up on something so trivial and insignificant as another's decision of how to ascend a piece of rock. If another man sits, or stands when he pees, it doesn't affect me. And, please don't say that it blocks your ability to cleanly ascend a pitch in "good style". If you're such a purest, take the draw off the "fixed bolt", put your own draw on, and rejoice in the small contrived difficulty you've created in pursuit of "keeping it real".

Last issue, for those who defend the "thief" on the grounds of his community service to the park and its cleanliness... He was so flustered when he was descending the route that he accidently left his own two draws on the first two bolts. He is just another park "vandalizer" leaving fixed gear, but with a sweet hat and some good looking hair.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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