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Routes in Dolomite Spire
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Campground Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Dolofright T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Kor Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Tom Gilje & Julie Gilje - 1993 |
| Page Views: | 6,101 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Nov 17, 2003 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Dolofright: a two pitch face climb up the blunt arete along the right side of Dolomite Spire as seen from the road.
Begin from a comfortable ledge on the notch between Lighthouse Tower and Dolomite Spire (see approach directions for Dolomite).
P1: Hard right off the deck. Climb up and right along an overhanging bulge (protected by three pins) using incut crimps, clip a bolt, and step left along a horizontal to the arete. If you found these moves difficult, get ready. Continue up the face and arete past two more bolts to a good stance immediately below the crux: a really awesome (but reach-dependent?) sequence using two side pulls and (seemingly) no feet. Clip a fourth bolt, perform a difficult mantle, and then run it out a ways along the arete on scary gear (two yellow Aliens in a flaring slot) and scary holds to more bolts and a great belay ledge. Many sections of 5.11 on this pitch.
P2: Climb up off the belay over ledgey terrain and dicey holds 25' to a bolt. Repeat this for 3 more bolts (hardest/scariest move comes about ten feet above the fourth bolt) to an anchor on the summit. Mostly 5.10-. Descent: From a second anchor on the far side of the tower you can get down in one clean rap with double 60m ropes and 10' of downclimbing. You can also stop at the high notch between Dolomite and Big Bend Butte if your ropes are shorter.
Dolofright is an incredible route, especially when you consider that Tom Gilje bolted this thing on lead, but Fred Knapp must have been on Crack when he said that it was the best Wingate face climbing he'd ever done. There are many great, difficult sequences, but they are constantly interrupted by terrifying sections of climbing on flexing holds. Falls are not necessarily clean on this climb, and I felt that both pitches are deserving of an R rating. That said, the position (especially on the lower crux pitch) is awesome and the summit is great, but this is definately a route for true desert rats.
Begin from a comfortable ledge on the notch between Lighthouse Tower and Dolomite Spire (see approach directions for Dolomite).
P1: Hard right off the deck. Climb up and right along an overhanging bulge (protected by three pins) using incut crimps, clip a bolt, and step left along a horizontal to the arete. If you found these moves difficult, get ready. Continue up the face and arete past two more bolts to a good stance immediately below the crux: a really awesome (but reach-dependent?) sequence using two side pulls and (seemingly) no feet. Clip a fourth bolt, perform a difficult mantle, and then run it out a ways along the arete on scary gear (two yellow Aliens in a flaring slot) and scary holds to more bolts and a great belay ledge. Many sections of 5.11 on this pitch.
P2: Climb up off the belay over ledgey terrain and dicey holds 25' to a bolt. Repeat this for 3 more bolts (hardest/scariest move comes about ten feet above the fourth bolt) to an anchor on the summit. Mostly 5.10-. Descent: From a second anchor on the far side of the tower you can get down in one clean rap with double 60m ropes and 10' of downclimbing. You can also stop at the high notch between Dolomite and Big Bend Butte if your ropes are shorter.
Dolofright is an incredible route, especially when you consider that Tom Gilje bolted this thing on lead, but Fred Knapp must have been on Crack when he said that it was the best Wingate face climbing he'd ever done. There are many great, difficult sequences, but they are constantly interrupted by terrifying sections of climbing on flexing holds. Falls are not necessarily clean on this climb, and I felt that both pitches are deserving of an R rating. That said, the position (especially on the lower crux pitch) is awesome and the summit is great, but this is definately a route for true desert rats.
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