Favorite 5.9 trad routes
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I wrote a short piece for splitterchoss.com about my favorite 5.9 trad routes. I would love to inspire some thoughts,discussion, stories, and add to my tick list. Check out the link and head over there to share. splitterchoss.com/2010/11/1… |
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I really like The Yellow Spur |
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Good article! |
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I noted that one of your criteria was 4 pitches or longer, which eliminates a few routes I would have suggested, however, The Flying Butress on Mt Meeker still qualifies and is a long-time favorite in the 5.9 range. |
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Butt Hair, Eldo! While this route is only 3 pitches and does have some bolts, I think it is a classic. I actually unintentionally climbed this route with my girlfriend on my first day in eldo (thought I was on west buttress...so much for falcon guide books) |
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Kor-Beck on Middle Cathedral in the Valley. Pitches 4 and 5 are such sweet, clean 5.9 lie-back corners! You will remember them always. |
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Tits and Beer at the Glass in NC. As good as the name. |
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North Ridge of Stuart |
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Loose Ends on Lumpy Ridge. Absolutely CLASSIC. |
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Will12 wrote:Loose Ends on Lumpy Ridge. Absolutely CLASSIC.Good route...but I thought fantasy ridge was better. |
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Awesome to see all the suggestions. So many routes waiting to be done. Too bad it is ski season. The tick list is just growing longer. Now I need to find some time to make some of these routes happen. Feel free to post over on splitterchoss too if people are inclined. |
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Good article - great choice with Frigid Air Buttress. |
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Whodunit, Consolation, and Open book (only 3 pitches but ultra classic, 1st 5.9 in the US) |
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not sure how in the hell the steck salathe hasn't been mentioned yet. |
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I liked your list. Glad that North Chimney of Castleton made it even if it's just "5.8+". I'm always scared to death by that loose block thing right at the top of the first pitch. Much scarier than the offwidth and 1/4er above it in my mind. Not sure why. |
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slim wrote:not sure how in the hell the steck salathe hasn't been mentioned yet.Because it's 5.10. Otherwise I'd be in on that one. Who can resist the O.W.?: Leg bruises on an anonymous MP.com friend after climbing Steck Salathe. Photo by Tony Bubb, 5/09. |
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Escape Artist - Black Canyon |
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Real 5.9 Classics: |
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shortguy, |
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Sykes Sickle (the best of a long list at this grade in RMNP) |
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Center Route on Cynical. Could be done in 4 pitches, but most do it in 3. I think it is the best 5.9 in CO. |