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All Locations > California > Lake Tahoe > Carson Pass Hig… > Calaveras Domes > Calaveras Dome > 2. Central Dome > Wall of the Worlds (5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13)
Blue line is the standard 10a start. The red line is the direct, 11-, start. I can't comment on the quality of the standard start, but the direct finger crack is excellent...even the undercling at the beginning is a lot of fun.<br> <br> Photo credit: Rick D.
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Corner at the top of the Mexican Flake.
Ian Campbell on the second face pitch
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J. Albers
Nov 22, 2010
“Blue line is the standard 10a start. The red line is the direct, 11-, start. I can't comment on the quality of the standard start, but the direct finger crack is excellent...even the undercling at the beginning is a lot of fun.

Photo credit: Rick D.”  

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Nearby Photos

Pitch 7 - Wild dykes
caughtinside nears the end of the long dihedral leading to the top of the Mexican Flake. Hammer Dome and the Mokelumne in the background. 5/2013.<br> <br> Photo: Corey Gargano
Looking up at Pitch 6, the first face pitch. I've marked the location of the first bolt and the anchors. The first bolt is quite difficult to see as a bolt since it is painted to more or less match. I actually saw it pretty quick but it took some moving around to look at it from different angles to convince myself that it was a bolt and not just a piece of protruding rock. The other bolts are much easier to see from the previous bolt.
On Pitch 7 you move up and right past a bolt to a second then follow a pair of dikes up and left. They eventually cross a roof and a flake where there seems like there might be an anchor. The anchor is actually still 30-40' up and left along the same dike line that you had been following.
"War of the Walls" topo.
Corner at the top of the Mexican Flake.
Blue line is the standard 10a start. The red line is the direct, 11-, start. I can't comment on the quality of the standard start, but the direct finger crack is excellent...even the undercling at the beginning is a lot of fun.<br> <br> Photo credit: Rick D.
Ian Campbell on the second face pitch
Calaveras Dome - Wall of the Worlds. Original topo by Jay Smith, plus a few of my edits
Looking down on Pitch 6 with all the bolts clipped. None of the run outs seemed that bad, nothing you would not expect if face climbing in Yosemite or Tuolumne.<br> <br> *There is a very height dependent move getting to the 3rd bolt on this pitch. You don't need to be particularly tall (maybe 5'8") to do it, but if you are too short... well my wife battened up the rope to reach the hold.
direct version p5
Long, fun 5.9 dihedral pitch leads to the top of the Mexican Flake. caughtinside raps off. 5/2013. <br> <br> Photo: Corey Gargano
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