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> Bighorn Mating Grotto
Caught Inside on a Big Set
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.2 from 80
votes
Routes in Bighorn Mating Grotto
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Caught Inside on a Big Set T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dangling Woo Li Master T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Euphrates T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Morning Thunder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sanctuary (aka Book of Changes) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Take Two, They're Small T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dave Evans and Craig Fry, February 1985 |
| Page Views: | 7,587 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | AJ on Dec 31, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
P1: Directly across from the Book of Changes, jam and layback a steep thin hand crack. Higher, step right into a wide hand crack. Down climb a few 5th class move to walk off or continue on P2 to the top!
P2. A nice hand crack (5.6) in a dihedral leads to the top of the formation.
P1 & P2 can be linked with a 70m rope.
Descend by rapping from a small pine tree on the northwest side of the plateau. Cross the gully and head north for about 30m where a much easier 8ft down climb leads to a nice flat slab. From here head to rap rings for Book of Changes can easily be accessed.
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