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Rock Climbing Photo: You're in LCC: the mandatory slopper mantle guards...
Id# 106942282, 469 x 700px View full size
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By Fett
Oct 30, 2010
I thought this spot was super heady and the crux. Wow, what a challange! Nice job on the cleaning and vison.
By tenesmus
Oct 30, 2010
Hey man - did you send? I hope I graded it ok. I never can tell...
I wanna link that crack below into the finish. Should be for reals.
By Fett
Oct 31, 2010
That thing kicked my ass. I climbed it in the middle of December last year and it was quite cold. I whipped so many times at the top I had to back up that blue tcu with a micro nut. I couldnt see where the #4 went which made me get a little off route to the left I think. I thought it was solid 12 for sure but I also dont climb a lot of trad 12s.
By tenesmus
Oct 31, 2010
Yeah, it kicked mine too. If it weren't so fun I wouldn't have kept going back up there. Those boulder problems are fun. You can nest pieces at the stance just below - a bomber medium-to-largish offset nut, a hand-sized piece and another medium cam.

A micro-nut by the tcu doesn't hold well although I had one of those in too. But the tcu always held. And a .3 camalot, which seemed to fit better somehow. I once put the tcu in large lobes left, which was stupid because two lobes are what ended up catching my fall. Not a happy moment trying to get it in right.

I used the #4 near the start. It isn't mandatory but having it made me feel a lot better.
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Avg Score   5.0 from 3 votes
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You're in LCC: the mandatory slopper mantle guards the top.

Submitted By: Boissal on Oct 29, 2010
On this route:
Early Bird (5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b )
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