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easiest 11s for the grade at DL?

Original Post
NickinCO · · colorado · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 155

I did my first devils lake 11 two weeks ago and I'm looking for more routes to break into the grade. Something similar to Beginners Demise.

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,952

ABM is just a bit harder, Thoroughfare is a bit easier and Gill's Nose is like Beginners Demise, but not as good climbing.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

There are no easy 11's at the Lake

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
john strand wrote:There are no easy 11's at the Lake
.....because the routes are sandbagged where 11's are true 12's.
Chad Miller · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 150

No the routes aren't sandbagged, you're just not that good of a climber. :P

Seriously the routes at DL aren't sandbagged.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Ya- that's what Rugo told me.

Garrett Soper · · Duluth, Minnesota · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 20

Happy Hunting Grounds is fairly easy for .11 IMO.

Ben Mahaffey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 50

I think t-fare is one of the easier 11s at the lake

Peter Arndt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 790

Would agree that T-Fare is an "easier" 5.11 on TR of course. Another one that comes to mind that is perhaps a little easier is Ironmongers Super Direct.

Swartlings guide lists climbs that are "examples" for each grade at D-Lake. He lists Black Rib as the example for 5.11a. IMO it is hard as hell. Certainly harder than the two mentioned above.

Get on some 5.8's in the obscure parts of the park and beleive me they just might feel like 5.11 but that's a whole nother topic.

Ed Wright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 285

Happy Hunting Grounds.

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,296

I don't think a lot of the upper grades at DL are sandbagged. The 11's feel very right on to me though here and there are a few that feel un poco sandbagged.

Coup D'Etat 5.11b on the West Bluff is a shorter, albeit fun, right on 11. Mouse Tracks is a one move wonder 11a. So, if you're looking for "just the grade" that's an easy one but if you want an all around good, sustained 11 try ABM next to Beginner's Demise. It's fairly consistent all the way through. Happy Hunting Grounds and Vivisection are also good candidates.

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,296
Peter Arndt wrote:Would agree that T-Fare is an "easier" 5.11 on TR of course. Another one that comes to mind that is perhaps a little easier is Ironmongers Super Direct. Swartlings guide lists climbs that are "examples" for each grade at D-Lake. He lists Prime Rib as the example for 5.11a. IMO it is hard as hell. Certainly harder than the two mentioned above. Get on some 5.8's in the obscure parts of the park and beleive me they just might feel like 5.11 but that's a whole nother topic.
Do you mean Black Rib as the benchmark 5.11? Because Prime Rib is certainly no 11... just a run-out 5.10-
Peter Arndt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 790

Yes thanks I do mean BLACK RIB. I corrected it.

NickinCO · · colorado · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 155

Thanks guys, I'm going to try and knock a few of these out before the winter hits. I was checking out thoroughfare the other day and that looks like a good one.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Midwest
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