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Routes in Old Folks' Wall
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American Crawl T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bulgaria S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bunny, The T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gelding Years, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ish Kabibble T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Squeaky Clean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thriller S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Rob Kelman, Ben Boykin, 9/18/09 |
| Page Views: | 1,140 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Boykin on Oct 19, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
Pitch 1: Climb gritty blocks (on the far left) onto the 15-foot-high shelf which runs along the base of the wall; crawl to the right until one is able the stand erect upon the shelf at the vertical offwidth crack. Belay here - you'll have rope drag if you don't!
Pitch 2: Ascend the offwidth above, which eases considerably after the hand-sized section. Belay your second from the top of the crack.
A direct start, "Crawl Direct," (5.8) is possible by climbing the gritty, dirty groove (bolt) beneath the upper crack.
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Pitch 2: Ascend the offwidth above, which eases considerably after the hand-sized section. Belay your second from the top of the crack.
A direct start, "Crawl Direct," (5.8) is possible by climbing the gritty, dirty groove (bolt) beneath the upper crack.
Protection
Standard Vedauwoo Rack (stoppers through #6 Camalot). Rappel 70 feet from anchors atop "The Bunny," just to the northeast.
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