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supertape for trad slings?

sunder · · Alsip, Il · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 805

Using it as a sling is cool.

A little off topic but something to note.

Don't use it for replacing the sling on a C3 or C4 BD cam. The wire on the cam will cut though the sling before you reach the breaking strenght of the cam. That why the slings are double wrapped around the wire of the cams.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520
JJ Brunner wrote:Water knot easily untied?! I've had some very frustrating times untying water knots from 1" webbing after a day of toproping...
If you didn't hang an engine block off the knot it is easily untied.
Devin Krevetski · · Northfield, VT · Joined May 2008 · Points: 140
Stich wrote: If you didn't hang an engine block off the knot it is easily untied.
Dude, I think he's calling you fat.
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

if i remember correctly, a double fisherman's is actually stronger than a water knot when tied with webbing. it feels kind of weird to tie a fisherman with webbing. maybe somebody can look up tom moyers testing website and see if my memory is correct, or if i am full of it.

J.B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 150
SlowTrad wrote:BITD this is what everyone used for slings. 36" tied with a water knot made a 24" over-the-shoulder sling. The supertape stuff is good, but slightly weaker than the 1" nylon. I also use supertape to re-sling cams, with a water knot...just make sure to check the knot once in a while.
It took me 57" per sling of 9/16" "supertape" to make slings the same size as BD over the shoulder slings. Each one of my slings are tied with a water know with 2" tails.
redlude97 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 5
slim wrote:if i remember correctly, a double fisherman's is actually stronger than a water knot when tied with webbing. it feels kind of weird to tie a fisherman with webbing. maybe somebody can look up tom moyers testing website and see if my memory is correct, or if i am full of it.
You are correct
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,280
David Sweet wrote:One of the main reasons that runners tied from tubular webbing are no longer commonly used in climbing is that the only practical knot usable with it - water knot, frost knot, grapevine, ring bend, etc. - is notoriously insecure. Not weak - insecure. That is, it comes untied all by itself, especially under cyclical loading - weight, un-weight, weight, un-weight, etc. A number of serious accidents resulted from this phenomenon before it was discovered. That is why tape or sling material is best used as sewn runners and anchor material that needs to be tied and untied for use is best made of cord or rope. The tape is cheap but if you're gonna tie it into runners, use really long tails and check the knots every time you use them.
I'm baffled by this. My water knots in tubular webbing have held tight for years and years, in fact are so tight they will probably never get untied again. They are now fixed length slings with a permanent knot that never moves.
KyleAnderson Anderson · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 270

Just use a beer-knot instead of a water knot. Cleaner, stronger and less likely to slip over time.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711
KyleAnderson wrote:Just use a beer-knot instead of a water knot. Cleaner, stronger and less likely to slip over time.
Problem is, you can't see the length of the tails. So, you'll never know if its slipped over time (or tied properly to begin with).

I think for most folks, 1" has fallen out of favor partly due to the smaller carabiners. 1" has enough hang over on a small 'biner that it might put some load in the minor axis. The smaller width tape doesn't do that.

I consume BW 9/16" webbing by the spool...
ddriver · · SLC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 2,084

Brian, I've got several spools you can have.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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