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Rock Climbing Photo: An unnecessarily sketchy anchor at the top of the ...
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 22, 2016
By Doug Foust
From: Henderson, Nevada
Mar 7, 2011
cool as in no regard for your partners life?
By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Mar 17, 2011
those look like they are about to pop out. Different, yes. Cool, no. Just dangerous.
By Kurt Ross
From: Boulder, colorado
Sep 5, 2011
They were bomber.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 6, 2011
For future reference, those chickenheads are not big enough to be considered bomber in Red Rock sandstone. Especially the smaller one. And especially in white rock.
By phil broscovak
Sep 7, 2011
Sorry Kurt I have to disagree with you and say that was not a "bomber" anchor.
It looks good and surely felt solid but the rock, particularly the white rock, is suspect at the best of times. Fortunately it looks like a fair crack to the side of the smaller head for an easy back-up.
I don't know how much experience you have at RR or on 'Soft Stone" but the weather will also play in considerably. Those heads will be extra suspect for days after a good rain.
By Kurt Ross
From: Boulder, colorado
Sep 23, 2011
Thanks for the input. I'd be interested in pull test results of similar conditions.
By skrivan
Nov 18, 2011
what was the belayer tied into....maybe i just dont see it; or maybe this was a directional to run the ATC-guide through? I wouldnt have used these knobs, personally, and would have stuffed a number 2 cam into that crack that was already pointed out.
By dorseyec
Dec 19, 2011
scary! get some instruction before you kill yourself.
By Cunning Linguist
Dec 19, 2011
Ladies and gentlemen, he's back, with more helpful comments. If I do the route again anytime soon, Kurt, I'll get video taken of me breaking those holds off with my bare hands or a swift kick. 20 bucks says wet or dry they're gone in ten seconds. Really.
By Alex A
Jan 1, 2013
My 2 CENT'S, sandstone chicken heads, Bomber NOT!! what were you thinking, you where not thinking, OMG, plus 100% belay anchor, need to learn more, a lot more,
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Jan 23, 2013
Scathing self-aggrandizing critiques are not very useful.
By Derek Doucet
Jan 24, 2013
If that was the only anchoring option, a MUCH better choice would have been to belay directly off of your harness in a good, well braced position. In that case your "anchor" would have served only as a modestly tensioned back-up against the possibilty of you being pulled out of position. When working with questionable anchors, that's a much better way to go then belaying directly off the anchor. And for what it's worth, I have many days climbing on soft sandstone both in Red Rock and elsewhere, and would have felt very, very uncomfortable with that anchor. Oh yeah, tie limiting knots in your sliding x's as well. No sense making a sketchy situation worse.
Apr 9, 2013
Kurt, hopefully you didn't do this on Frogland?
By Matt Wenger
From: Bozeman
Jun 12, 2015
That was really a poor choice for an anchor. I'd use those chicken heads, but only if there was absolutely nothing else, or with a couple solid cams/nuts plugged.
By Kurt Ross
From: Boulder, colorado
Jun 20, 2015
You all are totally right. I think I'm slightly less stupid now.
By walmongr
From: Gilbert AZ
Apr 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Only on Granite!!! I have seen way to much stuff t...
Only on Granite!!! I have seen way to much stuff that looks solid blow apart on sandstone!
Photo 5 of 58
Avg Score   3.0 from 6 votes
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An unnecessarily sketchy anchor at the top of the last pitch

Submitted By: Kurt Ross on Sep 29, 2010
On this route:
Frogland (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c )
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