Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
KR Goes to Valhalla
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.2 from 5
votes
Routes in Pontatoc Ridge
|
|
KR Goes to Valhalla T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Old Spanish Offwidth, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
|
Shelter From the Storm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Signals T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Void of Form S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | Jeff Mayhew, Joaquin Fox, Dave Muller 2010 |
| Page Views: | 3,812 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | JMayhew on Mar 15, 2010 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Restrictions January 1 - April 30
Details
Special Closure Order #03-05-05-18-002 (found here: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO… ) prohibits travel more than 400' off of established trails due to Bighorn Sheep lambing season.
Description
Start about 80' to the left of "Shelter From the Storm's" giant left-facing corner. You should be able to see 2 bolts on the first pitch. If you plan well you can avoid rope drag (double ropes work great.)
1. Climb a short wide crack, up past 2 bolts, then diagonal left along crack to small ledge. Up past another bolt to a right diagonalling ramp and climb the right side of a steep, short corner with a bolt at the top. Up and slightly right on blocky ledge, ramping back left to a 2 bolt anchor at the base of a long, left-facing corner. (5.8 130')
2. Climb corner, continuing straight up, turning small roof on flakes to the left. Climb past the next roof (with agaves on top) on the right side, diagonalling right to a one bolt belay backed up by stoppers. This is below and left of the orange corner seen from below. (5.7 130')
3. Climb steep, exciting corner. Short step right onto ledge at base of bulgey face with great holds. Straight up onto ledge and 2 bolt belay. (5.8+ 100') [From top of corner it is possible to scramble around left through bushes and ledges with loose rocks and cactus, but....]
Hike up and left along slope, accessing left diagonalling ramp just down and left of turquoise mine. Walk to left end of ramp and belay on nice ledge.
4. Climb shallow left-facing corner, up thru black band of rock, then up thru "V" notch in white roof. Pass small white thumb, then up until you can step left and belay on big ledge, down and left of tree. (5.8 140')
5. Straight up to next big ledge at base of corner with "triangular-capped roof". A bolt protects the bouldery move getting into the corner. Up easy ground, looking for narrow ramp heading up and right (use long runners if placing gear in corner!) A thrilling "in-your-face" traverse leads to a short bulgey section of dark rock with in-cut handholds. A long reach to a bolt protects the final step back left, directly under a ledge filled with shindaggers. Climb just left of that ledge past one more bolt and belay 15' above bolt in a horizontal crack on a sloping ledge. [Save some tiny cams and especially gear from 0.3 Camalot equivalent to #1 for belay] (5.8+ 140')
6. Diagonal up and right across ledge to buttress with a crack with shindaggers near the base. Good pro leads up to a dirty ledge. Step left, right or go straight up to summit ridge. Either choice has some weak rock to avoid. The long boulder on top teeters so use the tree or something else for a belay. (5.5 60')
1. Climb a short wide crack, up past 2 bolts, then diagonal left along crack to small ledge. Up past another bolt to a right diagonalling ramp and climb the right side of a steep, short corner with a bolt at the top. Up and slightly right on blocky ledge, ramping back left to a 2 bolt anchor at the base of a long, left-facing corner. (5.8 130')
2. Climb corner, continuing straight up, turning small roof on flakes to the left. Climb past the next roof (with agaves on top) on the right side, diagonalling right to a one bolt belay backed up by stoppers. This is below and left of the orange corner seen from below. (5.7 130')
3. Climb steep, exciting corner. Short step right onto ledge at base of bulgey face with great holds. Straight up onto ledge and 2 bolt belay. (5.8+ 100') [From top of corner it is possible to scramble around left through bushes and ledges with loose rocks and cactus, but....]
Hike up and left along slope, accessing left diagonalling ramp just down and left of turquoise mine. Walk to left end of ramp and belay on nice ledge.
4. Climb shallow left-facing corner, up thru black band of rock, then up thru "V" notch in white roof. Pass small white thumb, then up until you can step left and belay on big ledge, down and left of tree. (5.8 140')
5. Straight up to next big ledge at base of corner with "triangular-capped roof". A bolt protects the bouldery move getting into the corner. Up easy ground, looking for narrow ramp heading up and right (use long runners if placing gear in corner!) A thrilling "in-your-face" traverse leads to a short bulgey section of dark rock with in-cut handholds. A long reach to a bolt protects the final step back left, directly under a ledge filled with shindaggers. Climb just left of that ledge past one more bolt and belay 15' above bolt in a horizontal crack on a sloping ledge. [Save some tiny cams and especially gear from 0.3 Camalot equivalent to #1 for belay] (5.8+ 140')
6. Diagonal up and right across ledge to buttress with a crack with shindaggers near the base. Good pro leads up to a dirty ledge. Step left, right or go straight up to summit ridge. Either choice has some weak rock to avoid. The long boulder on top teeters so use the tree or something else for a belay. (5.5 60')
Location
Descent: 2 options:
A: 1. Rap half-rope from 2 bolts at top of chimney, just uphill from top of climb. Stay on rope as you walk to edge of cactus ledge, looking for two bolts just over next lip. These are just above the triangular capped roof** seen from below. [This anchor is 30' (climber's) left of the last bolt on pitch 5.
2.Rap 180 to ledge right in front of mine.
3.Walk all the way back to the 2 bolts at the top of pitch 3. Rap 180 to a sloping ledge with 2 bolts.
4.Rap 160 to the ground.
B: If you've left nothing at the base, hike down the Pontatoc Ridge trail all the way to the road.
A: 1. Rap half-rope from 2 bolts at top of chimney, just uphill from top of climb. Stay on rope as you walk to edge of cactus ledge, looking for two bolts just over next lip. These are just above the triangular capped roof** seen from below. [This anchor is 30' (climber's) left of the last bolt on pitch 5.
2.Rap 180 to ledge right in front of mine.
3.Walk all the way back to the 2 bolts at the top of pitch 3. Rap 180 to a sloping ledge with 2 bolts.
4.Rap 160 to the ground.
B: If you've left nothing at the base, hike down the Pontatoc Ridge trail all the way to the road.
Photos
6 Comments