24-September-2010: 3.5 pitches of ice in right couloir

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24-September-2010: 3.5 pitches of ice in right couloir

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Left couloir bergschrund on August 12th, 2023. Quite high. Likely a full rock pitch to get around it. We opted for the left-most couloir instead.

Heading up the couloir with some decent alpine ice

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rhyang

Sep 26, 2010

“24-September-2010: 3.5 pitches of ice in right couloir”

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Nearby Photos

Heading up the couloir with some decent alpine ice

Looking straight up at the r gully

Oct 6, 2013, good ice, Jim leading our 2nd pitch after crossing the shrund

Me approaching on 9-17-2016.

North Pk approach: we took the ramp just below and to the right of the couloir and the water streaks. It is marked by a stand of trees angling up and right.

Cameron climbing the perfect neve approaching the beginning of the ice in September 2016

The one pitch of rock after the ice couloir, to the summit of North Peak

E. Face of N Pk.

North Couloir

24-September-2010: short last pitch to the couloir exit

Skiing the N couloir of North Peak

sweet climbing on Neve

Sept. 9, 2018: 10 screws & a 60m rope will get you there in 4 pitches.

Gully looking good, early October in 2013

10-7-17 the bergschrund filled in just enough to be climbable and interesting.

2nd pitch. Today the climb was ice bottom to top and a little steeper than the usual 50 degrees.

Sept. 9, 2018: Toad climbing the schrund (15'; slightly overhung in the upper few feet). Funnest part of the route!

10-7-17. Brittle ice about half way up the couloir and neve on all the rest.

North Couloir

from the top of the couloir, looking towards summit. 9/17/10

the gazelle tunneling 10/7/17

Roping up at North Peak

24-September-2010: first pitch

Late summer conditions? Coldest on record in my Sierra experience: blizzard with temps in the low teens but ice was nice!

North Face of North Peak

July 5 2012. Low snow year. Icy-hard neve in all 3 couloirs.

All 3 couloirs on August 12th, 2023. We went for the left. Rock crossing near the top was quite casual. Occasional small-to-medium cam placements available on the left the whole way up.

24-September-2010: Second pitch

9/23/22 Rock islands are present that I don't see in any other photos. Recent snow covering only rocks? No ice?

September 17, 2010

10-September-2006: very big snow year, couloir was all neve late into the season

24-September-2010: third pitch

July 15, 2017, a record snow year. The bergschrund looks huge from the approach. In fact, it is 12 - 15 feet high and overhanging, not passable for me.

July 15, 2017. Photo from bottom of the bergschrund.

9/23/22 A bit closer up showing boulders at bottom, more detail of rocks. Is that just snow from previous nights? Any ice anymore at all?

September 17, 2010

Left couloir bergschrund on August 12th, 2023. Quite high. Likely a full rock pitch to get around it. We opted for the left-most couloir instead.

24-September-2010: 3.5 pitches of ice in right couloir

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