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Bolting Clinic

EMT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 205

do the right thing!

Hook up with ASCA safeclimbing.org/education.htm or the north face one ARI: climbing.com/community/ari/…

go out yank some old crap bolts with the pros and learn to put in the good $hit the right way...plus you'll have good karma that way for doing the climbing community a service!

Good luck man.

EDIT:::: Hey, Brendon I just saw that you're in Cali! You should definitely hook up with the guys on supertopo (They're much more into best practices on bolting not like MP were emotions and machismo rule) A bunch of them are active in getting junk bolts replaced out in the sierra. HAve fun.

dale polen · · arivaca, az · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 95

hey, just ask the guys who bolted rays creation. they bolted the heck out of that place. There is so much gear there that you can climb anywhere and place gear and clip a bolt. I think the common practice is to bolt near gear placements so you can do either. Lol.

snowdenroad · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 50

You mean these things?

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422

Be sure to sign up for the clinic on Route Restoration. Topics include:

Keynote Address: "Live and Let Bolt?"
Bolt Chopping: Crow or breaker bars?
Bolt Hole Repair: Which expoxy fits your style?
Paint Removal: Latest techniques and technologies (presented by a co-lead of the Sistine Chapel rennovation team).

Chopping Ethics - Session A: A review of state by state removal notification laws.
Chopping Ethics - Session B: Should you wait for the FA to finish and get off the route before starting to chop from the bottom?
Chopping Ethics - Session C: Bolted cracks and preventing violence at crags.
Chopping Ethics - Session D: Are there any crags protected from bolting by the community without intervention by a private land owner or regulatory action by public land managers?
Chopping Ethics - Session E: Dishman, a case study in successful dispute resolution.
Chopping Ethics - Session F: Infinite Bliss, a case study in necessary arbitration or collective paralysis?
Chopping Ethics - Session G: Chopping, an individual or community responsibility?
Chopping Ethics - Session H: Chopping, Elitism or crowd control?
Chopping Ethics - Session I: Ken Nichols - Profiles in courage or savagely misguided atrocities?

We'll be holding this clinic at Owen River Gorge due to the abunance of bolted cracks - look for a clinic at your crag soon!

snowdenroad · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 50

Then there is the clinic on bolting Oregon/Washington choss to reduce crowding and congestion at Beacon.

your welcome!
:)

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422
snowdenroad wrote:Then there is the clinic on bolting Oregon/Washington choss to reduce crowding and congestion at Beacon. your welcome! :)
That of course is a great service to mankind, or at least me on the days I qualify.
Chris D · · the couch · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 2,230


Whoever put this in could have used a clinic.
coop Best · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 485

wtf?

Chris D wrote: Whoever put this in could have used a clinic.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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