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Alien Head Area Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Alien Head Area

	Alien Head S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Angel's Desire S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Chick Magnet, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Funky Fresh S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Hammer, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Holly Hipkiss S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Horney Goat Weed T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Neenee, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Starrbonne S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Elevation:	3,100 ft
GPS:	34.08779, -116.13661 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	21,279 total · 128/month
Shared By:	C Miller on Aug 12, 2010
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Temporary Closure in effect from April 3 to June 15, 2024 Details

Temporary Closure for Nesting Raptors
Date Posted: 4/4/2024
Due to the presence of nesting raptors, the following rock climbing areas are temporarily closed: Slatanic Area, Rattlesnake Buttress, Margaret Thatcher Spire, The Stepping Stones, The Bulkhead, The Dunce Cap, and Commissioner’s Buttress.

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This portion of the hillside has about a dozen routes or more ranging from to 5.8 to 5.12 with the climbing on the usual knobby cracks and faces. Rock quality varies from horrible to excellent with the darker rock, as always, being the best.

Getting There

Park in the large lot for Rattlesnake Canyon and hike east, crossing a wash, and hike up the steep and somewhat loose hillside (watch out for ballbearings underfoot) to the obvious formations near the top of the hill.

The approach takes 20-30 minutes.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Alien Head Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 13 ● The Chick Magnet Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 7 ● The Neenee Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 12 ● Alien Head Sport