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Rock Climbing Photo: Brady keeping it pure on his 4 star trad route, Cr...
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By bayard russell jr
From: Madison, NH
Nov 4, 2010
I have to disagree, the gear is A1 up and down this crack. It is so good, in fact, that the first time on it we were comfortable climbing the bolted section on gear while it was soaking wet.

Nonetheless, this is a great route. The bolts are a shame, but the climbing is still brilliant. Kudos to Brady for putting up one of the best crack climbs in the state.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 4, 2010
You're a He Man. So did you fall on the lower gear? I've never known Brady to be a slouch in his ability to place gear. Do you remember what you used? My memory is of it being good as long as you hung on it from below, but if above it, any outward pull would yank it out, not really good enough to warrant removal of the bolts and wrecking the original sport line. The gear above does all seem good though.

Anyway, per the bolts, they were there for many years as part of an excellent sport route (so not a shame imo) before the crack was lead, and Brady didn't think they should be removed. I suppose most who are looking to challenge them selves on it as a trad lead will skip the bolts as he did. I'm more into the climbing than worrying about gear, so I would clip the bottom bolt or two of The Owl Cliff Club myself, since they are there.
By bayard russell jr
From: Madison, NH
Nov 5, 2010
That was pretty funny. Wasn't trying to prove my manliness, just pointing out that we felt safe on the same gear that you described as being bad. Reading back, my comment sounded a little obnoxious.

We put in a couple of small nuts right of the deck, later on skipped those, followed by two cam placements, and two nut placements. Never used body weight to set anything. I think it's too bad the bolts are there, but it's not the end of the world and I'm not that worked up about it.

All that said, I don't want to cast a bad light on this route, it is really, really good, and I would reccommend to anyone to go out there and do it. It's a beautiful place.
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Brady keeping it pure on his 4 star trad route, Crack of the Future 12c, skipping the bolts on the start that shares with an earlier sport route, The Owl Cliff Club 12b/c, also classic. The gear would generally fall out as Brady climbed past it. I'd clip the bolts and save the gear for the good placements above.
Owl's Cliff Left, White Owl Face
Climber - Brady Libby

Submitted By: M Sprague on Jul 28, 2010
On this route:
Crack of the Future (5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b )
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