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Elevation: 7,916 ft
GPS: 47.48786, -120.78373
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Mar 22, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

Description Suggest change

This granite pyramid is not the largest piece of rock, but its unusually solid and home to some of the cascades best alpine rock routes. Acompanied by a beautiful lake, this peak has everything from the beginner to the burlified alpinist. The West Ridge is one of the greatest easy Cascade climbs while the south face holds splitters & splitters & splitters separated by great ledges. Prusik is said to have the best rock in the range. While popular on weekends you can find the entire peak to yourself at times.

Getting There Suggest change

Approach Prusik Peak via Snow Lakes Trail or Colchuck and Stuart lakes Trail. Both Trailheads require USFS parking permits and camping is by permit only between May 15 - Oct 15. Acquire permits at the Leavenworth Ranger Station.

For Snow Lakes approach:
Follow Icicle Rd. 4.3 miles to the Snow Creek Trail Head parking lot on the left. Follow the trail out of the parking lot past the billboard and over the creek. This trail will take you past Nada and Snow Lakes and put you at Lake Vivianne, looking directly at the south face of Prusik Peak, in about 10 miles with 5,000+ft elevation gain. Once at Lake Vivianne, follow trails up and right to Temple Lake and continue up climbers paths through boulders to the base of Prusik Peak for south face routes or hike to Prusik Pass to climb West Ridge route.

For Colchuck/Stuart Lakes approach:
Follow Icicle Rd. about 8.5 miles to Bridge Creek Campground. Find FS road 7601 at the far west end of the campground and follow it until you reach the Stuart Lake Trailhead. Hike the trail for 2.5 miles and take an obvious left leading to Colchuck lake. Once at the lake, boulder hop to the south end of the lake, passing underneath Colchuck and Dragontail Peaks, heading for Aasgard pass to the left of Dragontail. Follow Aasgard to its top on a well maintained trail. From the top continue on the Upper Enchantments trail until Prusik Peak is visible and choose whether to approach via Prusik Pass or Lake Vivianne.

Note: Approach from Snow Lakes tacks on an additional, approximate 2 miles and 1000ft of elevation gain, but is much more gradual and consistent. I.e. Aasgard pass gains 2.2k ft elevation in .8 miles. Snow lakes trail is also much more shaded on hot, sunny approach days.

8 Total Climbs

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Location: Prusik Peak Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Prusik Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 346
West Ridge
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 33
Beckey-Davis
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 187
Stanley-Burgner
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 62
Solid Gold
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 27
Der Sportsman
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
West Ridge
 346
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Beckey-Davis
 33
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Stanley-Burgner
 187
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Solid Gold
 62
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Der Sportsman
 27
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Prusik Peak »

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