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Rock Climbing Photo: It's a butt shot, but it shows the line of the fir...
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By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Mar 25, 2013
Would you do it differently next time (the belay, I mean) or is that only only option?
By Larry S
From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Mar 26, 2013
The most recommended way i hear to do it is to do it in a single pitch. Rope drag would probably be pretty bad though. The second pitch was pretty short, i think.
By SethG
Mar 27, 2013
I have done it both ways. The hanging belay isn't great. I wasn't absolutely thrilled with the gear and it isn't comfortable.

Doing the route as one pitch creates bad drag-- the climb does a U-turn through the crux. Maybe someone better than me can avoid it but I was using doubles and still created pretty bad drag at the top.

Still the single-pitch way is better in my opinion. And it's a great climb, beautiful 5.6 corner & traverse and an easyish one-move 5.8 crux.
By slim
Mar 28, 2013
one pitch with doubles is the way to go. great pitch, steep and sustained.
Apr 8, 2013
Both of those options aren't great - the hanging belay is what Seth said, and it's also pretty easy to lock yourself down if you try to link it and fail. A third thing to consider is doing a very short first pitch, then linking the last two.
By Dan Flynn
From: MA
Sep 25, 2013
One pitch, long slings, little gear in the corner and traverse = good fun
By rgold
From: Poughkeepsie, NY
Nov 14, 2015
I don't get significant rope drag doing it in a single pitch with doubles. Right-hand rope all the way up the corner and half-way or so along the traverse; double-length sling on the last piece. This may be the key, because the rope still has to run over a big overhang. Then left-hand rope for the part from the hanging belay up over the crux, and then the right-hand rope again after traversing right after the crux.
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It's a butt shot, but it shows the line of the first pitch of Alphonse pretty well. From here, i traversed left to a stance and did a hanging belay because all the gear was knee-height.

Submitted By: Larry S on Jul 9, 2010
On this route:
Alphonse (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c )
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